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200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
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The Joy Of 240's, with issues...Views : 58554 Replies : 272Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jan 9th, 2020, 19:58 | #1 |
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The Joy Of 240's, with issues...
After an uneventful drive from collecting the new 1993 240 estate, it's time to get stuck into the various little (I hope) niggles prior to the MOT which is due in a couple of weeks time.
Aside from consumables like windscreen wipers, I need to 1. Repair the tailgate brake light. Suspect the hinge wiring or earth, it 'glows' all the time the car is running, no idea if it lights up on the brake pedal. 2. Repair the rear light clusters. Both are held together with tape, but all the bits are there. 20+ years of building RC aircraft will help with that bit. 3. The biggie. Engine light on.....Fault codes are 113 (injector fault), 221 (compensating for extremely rich or lean at cruise) & 231 (compensating for rich or lean at cruise). The first 2 codes result in the engine warning light being lit, the 3rd does not. I have reset the codes, they return along with the warning light as soon as the car is started. Things checked so far in limited available time. MAF resistance measured at 3.1 Ohms, within range for the LH2.4 system, so presumed OK. No error codes for MAF either. Checked inlet hoses for damage, all OK. Lambda sensor (3 wire type) resistance measured at 3 Ohms cold, 6 Ohms just after starting so will check that it's 13 Ohms hot tomorrow. Need to check voltage output when running also to ensure it is signalling the ECU correctly. Injectors. Listened to all 4, they are clicking nicely. Resistance on all is the same and pretty much at spec at 15.6 Ohms (book says 16). Not sure if there is a value in a noid test since they are all clicking so assume getting a signal. Hopefully going in the right direction. No smoke on idle or under load. Got a bit of time the next few days so hopefully nail the engine light issue, the rest is just good old fashioned mechanics. |
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Jan 9th, 2020, 23:17 | #2 |
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You can get a new harness for the tailgate as well as new rear lights from Skandix. I bought complete light units for 140 Euros a pop, because it's a lot easier not to fiddle around changing over bulb holders to a new unit. The factory replacement lights even had bulbs in.
It sounds like you know what you're doing diagnosing the fault codes. I've never had a faulty injector code come up. It's always been MAF or coolant temp sensor related.
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Present: 1990 240GL saloon, 1992 240 estate Past: 1988 240GL; 1971 144DL; 1972 145DL |
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Jan 10th, 2020, 14:47 | #3 |
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Just double check that the concertina hose from the MAF to the throttle body is sound - being plastic and old, it will have become less flexible and could be letting in air
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Jan 10th, 2020, 15:23 | #4 |
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The plot thickens..
A spare hour in a break from decorating. Brake lights all working. Blown fuse to start with, I reckon the units full of water did that. Tailgate light fine. NSR lamp blown and contacts mucky, all cleaned up. Easy problem fixed. Engine light continues! Tested the lambda sensor. Cold resistance 2.5 ohms, with the temperature gauge up a bit, 5.8 ohms, way below spec of 13 ohms. Voltage between sensor and ground started at 0.5 - 0.8 as it should do, but as soon as we got warm it dropped to 0v. Going to get under the car at the weekend I hope and check the wiring, but I suspect I need a new O2 sensor Despite the 0v output, the engine ran considerably worse when I disconnected it. A code reset and the 113 injector fault has gone. The remaining are lean/rich so if the lambda is not feeding back that would make some sort of sense. Oh, I removed some of the considerable moss growth too... |
Jan 10th, 2020, 17:06 | #5 |
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I'm not sure that code 113 means a injector fault.
From memory it's a rich (or incorrect) mixture, so probably a symptom of a failed lambda sensor. |
Jan 11th, 2020, 18:17 | #6 |
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A decent run out this morning to get new wiper blades and warm the whole car through to test the O2 sensor. At idle, 0v static. Needed to get the revs above 2000 rpm before it started to respond, the fluctuated between 0.1v and 0.8v, so near spec. Resistance was 5.8 ohms. Unless the throttle position sensor has an input (it's not clicking off idle, I need to remove it and test outputs are closing), then I'm going to remove the O2 sensor at some point and replace.
Also removed the tail lights today, all held together with tape and full of water and mould. After removing I have ended up with quite a jigsaw to put together, but it's all there so nothing a few hours with glue and sealant won't fix. If I get it sorted for an MOT then I may splash out on new rear light clusters. |
Aug 28th, 2020, 12:47 | #7 |
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Last edited by Othen; Aug 28th, 2020 at 12:50. |
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Aug 28th, 2020, 19:51 | #8 | |
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Quote:
That awkward bolt, do you reckon a ratchet spanner would do the trick without removing the alternator? |
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Aug 28th, 2020, 21:24 | #9 | |
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Quote:
I tried a ratchet spanner but couldn't get mine in the narrow gap between the bolt head and the sides of the bracket. I used a cranked ring spanner - if you had a slimmer ratchet spanner it might work - but mine didn't. Although removing it it sounds a bit excessive, the alternator is only held on by 2 bolts, and you don't need to take it all the way off, just swing it out of the way and it can wedge somewhere on the front valance. Disconnect the battery first of course, but you can probably leave the alternator's electrical connections in place. Once you have that bolt out you only need the parts off the engine for a few minutes to change the mount (I took the time to clean them up in a bucket of solvent but one doesn't have to). So, from my experience I'd say drop off the oil filter, try your ratchet on the front bolt just in case it works - then if not drop the alternator forward and leave it wedged (or tie it up with some wire) while you get the brackets out. I couldn't see any other way to do it and wasted lots of time trying out lots of things that didn't work. Good fortune, Alan Last edited by Othen; Aug 28th, 2020 at 21:48. Reason: Grammar. |
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Aug 29th, 2020, 12:55 | #10 |
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Well that was more challenging!
Oil filter off, and I managed to get on the front 12mm bolt with the alternator top mount disconnected and it swung against the inner wing. Was a 1/4 turn at a time mind. All came off easily enough, and the old mount was at least still in 1 piece, but somewhat squashed and looking more like a lozenge in shape. Getting the new one in was a game. Dropped into the crossmember ok, but the engine was about 1" away from the holes. Ended up with a second jack under the exhaust side to get things lined up. Now I have an engine that doesn't move, and runs rough as it always does after the battery has been disconnected. Always resolves itself after a few runs though, very odd. |
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