Wheel stud

[Rammer 46]

Hi can anyone advise please
I put the car in for its MoT it passed with an advisory on front lower ball joint slight play
Question is it better change the complete arm or just the ball joint
Secondly it seems a locking stud is missing from the wheel
I am sure it was there when it went in as I washed the car but seems very unusual for the locking stud to be missing when car returned
Can anyone tell me what size these studs are please before trotting off to scrappies or Fleabay

Regards

Rammer

[jasmith44]

Any stud will do as long as it is the same size. It doesn't need to be a locking stud.

[Rammer 46]

Thank you so much its quite weird how it was there when the car was collected for MoT as I washed it down
Seems it disappeared between leaving here and returning
Think I have now sourced one tomorrow

Kind Regards

Rammer

[al dm]

Originally Posted by Rammer 46

Hi can anyone advise please
I put the car in for its MoT it passed with an advisory on front lower ball joint slight play
Question is it better change the complete arm or just the ball joint
Secondly it seems a locking stud is missing from the wheel
I am sure it was there when it went in as I washed the car but seems very unusual for the locking stud to be missing when car returned
Can anyone tell me what size these studs are please before trotting off to scrappies or Fleabay

Regards

Rammer

Having been through this fairly recently while replacing wheel bearings, I can tell you it's going to be much easier to change the entire arm rather than just the ball joint.

You wont be able to get the ball joint out unless you remove the arm anyway. Even if you try to drill the rivets out....

You will also need a long lever, a big g-cramp and ideally the weight of a second person to separate the ball joint from the knuckle as there is no real way to get a ball joint separator in there.

Finally, you will need a new dust shield, as you will destroy the old one getting the ball joint out of the knuckle. There are only a couple of quid from Volvo.

It's not a hard job, but it does require some physical force. Support the front of the car as high up as you can to give your long lever enough room to work without hitting the floor.

[simboc2004]

Having drilled out the rivets and replaced the ball joint on one side on my car several years ago I would confirm that it's much easier to change the whole arm...

Hindsight is a wonderful thing. I did manage it, though. It is most definitely worth buying, or copying (my approach), the official balljoint splitter tool.

[Rammer 46]

Thank you so much

I looked at videos and thought its going to need some force
Also as you say best to change the complete arm thanks again
Will look at prices for the arm,
Also looks like its a indy job as I am getting on a bit now lol


regards

Rammer

[simboc2004]

me too - 62 last week! Lying down or sitting is OK, kneeling is not so good... :-))

[al dm]

Originally Posted by Rammer 46

Thank you so much

I looked at videos and thought its going to need some force
Also as you say best to change the complete arm thanks again
Will look at prices for the arm,
Also looks like its a indy job as I am getting on a bit now lol


regards

Rammer

The arms are not a huge amount. I think they were about £75 each.

[Rammer 46]

Thank you for that
I looked and there are several makes at various prices
so will go for the mid range unless anyone can recommend any
Much appreciated
My Indy says about £140 to change but that maybe with labour

Regards

Rammer