V70 P3 D5 185 inlet manifold

[scott8629]

Good afternoon all.
Hope you have had a merry Christmas.

I have been having some problems with my D5 with it going in to limp mode and recently a garage changed the EGR motor and all was well for around 1000miles.
The mechanic did say that a fault code for the inlet manifold did keep appearing but the car was driving as normal.

However the car is now in limp mode and after a restart will drive as normal for 15 mins or so then back into limp mode.

My question is where can I buy an inlet manifold and are they difficult to fit?

What makes this a bit more akward is that I am in Hamburg Germany.

Looking forward to any replies or advice

[Clan]

Originally Posted by scott8629

Good afternoon all.
Hope you have had a merry Christmas.

I have been having some problems with my D5 with it going in to limp mode and recently a garage changed the EGR motor and all was well for around 1000miles.
The mechanic did say that a fault code for the inlet manifold did keep appearing but the car was driving as normal.

However the car is now in limp mode and after a restart will drive as normal for 15 mins or so then back into limp mode.

My question is where can I buy an inlet manifold and are they difficult to fit?

What makes this a bit more akward is that I am in Hamburg Germany.

Looking forward to any replies or advice

you can get an inlet manifold at your volvo dealer or from a breakers yard perhaps, but they may not be willing to make a whole engine a bit less saleable .. What has happened to your manifold to make it need a new one?

[scott8629]

Originally Posted by Clan

you can get an inlet manifold at your volvo dealer or from a breakers yard perhaps, but they may not be willing to make a whole engine a bit less saleable .. What has happened to your manifold to make it need a new one?

It's what my mechanic said would be the next part to change if the car became into limp mode again. He said it's not so common but he has changed them in the past.

[Clan]

Originally Posted by scott8629

It's what my mechanic said would be the next part to change if the car became into limp mode again. He said it's not so common but he has changed them in the past.

It sounds as if he is guessing rather than pointed out where it is faulty, i would take it to someone who has experience and it will save you a lot of money . Will you pay him if he changes it and the fault is not cured it could easily be a £700+ bill ?

[scott8629]

I understand what you are saying. The mechanic is the owner of an independent volvo specialist in Hull called Voltech and the fault code points at the Inlet manifold.
That is the information I have and the next steps that he would take.

These faults have started to appear after a change in my driving habits from long journeys each week to a very shot daily commute.
I've had the soot filter warning appear once and I will be looking to change to a petrol car in the coming month.

Maybe I should book it into Volvo in Hamburg or do you think my mechanic is far off the mark?

Thanks in advance.

[Clan]

Originally Posted by scott8629

I understand what you are saying. The mechanic is the owner of an independent volvo specialist in Hull called Voltech and the fault code points at the Inlet manifold.
That is the information I have and the next steps that he would take.

These faults have started to appear after a change in my driving habits from long journeys each week to a very shot daily commute.
I've had the soot filter warning appear once and I will be looking to change to a petrol car in the coming month.

Maybe I should book it into Volvo in Hamburg or do you think my mechanic is far off the mark?

Thanks in advance.

yes he is far off the mark if he is diving in changing an inlet manifold without knowing what s wrong with it . What is the fault code exactly?

[skyship007]

Originally Posted by scott8629

Good afternoon all.
Hope you have had a merry Christmas.

I have been having some problems with my D5 with it going in to limp mode and recently a garage changed the EGR motor and all was well for around 1000miles.
The mechanic did say that a fault code for the inlet manifold did keep appearing but the car was driving as normal.

However the car is now in limp mode and after a restart will drive as normal for 15 mins or so then back into limp mode.

My question is where can I buy an inlet manifold and are they difficult to fit?

What makes this a bit more akward is that I am in Hamburg Germany.

Looking forward to any replies or advice

You need to find out the exact code and meaning.

The inlet manifold might be restricted by Carbon deposits and with most diesels the shut off valve is removed and the manifold cleaned when the EGR is cleaned or replaced.

Check the exact part number of the EGR is correct, because if they fitted an El Cheapo one it might be causing trouble.

Diesels with a DPF are bad news once out of warranty if you do a lot of short trips. Fitting a pre heater to avoid or reduce the time taken to warm up the engine helps a lot, even a good stick on sump heater will cut that time in half.
A good autobahn trip will help burn the exhaust system clean.

If you visit a Volvo dealer, they will charge 2 arms and one leg to fit a new DPF and will probably insist a genuine Volvo EGR is fitted before offering a warranty on the work. If the CAT is also kaput (Rare) the final bill will teach you why pre DPF diesel Volvo cars are rather popular in Germany.

Just because a garage in Blighty says they are a Volvo specialist, does not mean they don't know how to tap up a real big bill.

If a DPF diesel is using oil, try to find out if the oil consumption can be reduced, because oil ash kills DPF's because it does not burn off.
If the engine is not dripping oil, use a top quality idle only flush just before an oil and filter change. Switch to using a major brand full synthetic that has the required Acea spec (Might be C3), but move up to an 0 or 5/40. Add half a can of a major brand stop leak every oil change to help swell the oil seals and if the engine is a well worn one, try a full can of Liqui Moly Ceratec. That combination of a slightly thicker oil, seal conditioners and stop leak will help to reduce the oil burn. If the bearings are worn the Ceratec will also help cut the oil consumption (Less vibration of the oil seal next to the bearing).
Don't touch the accelerator for 30 seconds after cold start or boot it when cold, as they both cause sudden spikes in oil burn.

[Clan]

Originally Posted by skyship007

You need to find out the exact code and meaning.

The inlet manifold might be restricted by Carbon deposits and with most diesels the shut off valve is removed and the manifold cleaned when the EGR is cleaned or replaced.

Check the exact part number of the EGR is correct, because if they fitted an El Cheapo one it might be causing trouble.

Diesels with a DPF are bad news once out of warranty if you do a lot of short trips. Fitting a pre heater to avoid or reduce the time taken to warm up the engine helps a lot, even a good stick on sump heater will cut that time in half.
A good autobahn trip will help burn the exhaust system clean.

If you visit a Volvo dealer, they will charge 2 arms and one leg to fit a new DPF and will probably insist a genuine Volvo EGR is fitted before offering a warranty on the work. If the CAT is also kaput (Rare) the final bill will teach you why pre DPF diesel Volvo cars are rather popular in Germany.

Just because a garage in Blighty says they are a Volvo specialist, does not mean they don't know how to tap up a real big bill.

If a DPF diesel is using oil, try to find out if the oil consumption can be reduced, because oil ash kills DPF's because it does not burn off.
If the engine is not dripping oil, use a top quality idle only flush just before an oil and filter change. Switch to using a major brand full synthetic that has the required Acea spec (Might be C3), but move up to an 0 or 5/40. Add half a can of a major brand stop leak every oil change to help swell the oil seals and if the engine is a well worn one, try a full can of Liqui Moly Ceratec. That combination of a slightly thicker oil, seal conditioners and stop leak will help to reduce the oil burn. If the bearings are worn the Ceratec will also help cut the oil consumption (Less vibration of the oil seal next to the bearing).
Don't touch the accelerator for 30 seconds after cold start or boot it when cold, as they both cause sudden spikes in oil burn.

2 points here :

1 , There is only one volvo specialist these days and that is the dealer . Things are getting very complex and they are the only people in the mix of things with the factory help in easy reach .. they do factory courses a few times a year and are bang on top of current problems . Knowledge is power as they say .

2 , yes The Independent volvo garages are now charging as close to dealer prices as they dare and also a few are charging MORE than retail for volvo parts and also fitting non volvo parts even when they say they use volvo parts ... It is easy to see as their stamp is in the service book and the oil filter you take out is non volvo and the pollen filters are dated which shows clearly it hasnt been changed for a year or two .

[PEGE63]

and/ or it could be some loose/rubbing wires...... just been on this wild goose chase, dealer ver nice n all that and has done everything by the book BUT it took some £600+ until 2 loose wires were located....

[scott8629]

Update.

After reading all the comments above, I decided to give the car a hard drive. Once warned up I drove for 5 Mins @ 4K RPM and for the next hour of my journey I used a gear or two lower and used all the rev range. Once on the Autobahn I drove at 120MPH for the rest of the journey (around 1H).

The car drove fine with and did not jump into limp mode.

I have reread the paperwork from Voltech - Unfortunately the Error Code is not listed.

They did replace the EGR Motor as it was very noisy.
Advisory Notes are
DTC for EGR Valve
DTC for DPF
DTC for throttle body

I will give Voltech a call to see if he remembers the exact fault code thrown up.

For now the car is driving well but I will be swapping it out for Petrol (Maybe a T6) as I love the V70. This D5 has been a fantastic car from 100K miles to 145K miles and only due to my lack of mileage I will be changing.

l will keep you updated on any new information and many thanks for the help and advice.