Amazon: - Starting problem

Cvives · Jul 14th, 2012, 16:33

Just changed the points, condensor, rotor and cap, after changing the plugs and wires. now it turns over fine, but appears to have no spark. After changing the plugs and wires and before making the changes to the distributor, it started fine. Any suggestions on what I may have done or failed to do? Thanks

tony lewis · Jul 14th, 2012, 18:48

if your a novice this may be useful if you know what your doin i'm sorry to be pointin out the bleedin obvious....are the plug leads goin from the right point to the right cylinder? have you touched the fuse box wires that go to the coil? is the dizzy cap on the right way round? are the wires to the coil ok connected properly at both ends etc? is your coil faulty? have you set the timing properly on the dizzy?

Derek UK · Jul 14th, 2012, 19:26

Depending on your distributor and the type of points it uses, you may have the points shorting out via the spring where it fixes to the bolt through the metal body. The order of the washers, both metal and nylon, are critical. Also if they get a bit distorted that can also allow the spring to touch the body. If all is well you will get a small spark across the points, ignition on, if you flick them open. No spark if shorted out. As it was running fine before you serviced the distributor you should be able to ignore most of the reasons in the previous post.............

Cvives · Jul 14th, 2012, 19:34

Have the feeling it is shorting out somewhere Or more likely the order of the washers...... I am a novice ( trying to learn) .... Thanks for your advice and parience

Cvives · Jul 14th, 2012, 19:50

Would you know the order of the nylon and metal washers?

Volvo_133 · Jul 14th, 2012, 20:55

Hi,
If you have the 2 seperate piece type points.The small section of the points is fixed to dizzy base plate, which is earthed to the car.The bigger piece with the spring steel section, must connect to the screw/stud which has the black low tension wire from the coil.

Where the screw passes through the distributor, and the spring steel point section must not touch the casing of the distributor.

Build up the points as above and you should have a car that starts.

Ron Kwas · Jul 14th, 2012, 22:59

Cvives;

As others have pointed out, the Pointsbolt and the spring of the (two-part) points must be insulated from the dist housing or you will have the (no-spark) symptoms. I expect this is what's causing your ignition issue...it is an easy beginner's mistake...a simple way to verify this error condition is to check for continuity to chassis of this node with IGN OFF and WHILE POINTS ARE OPEN...it should be electrically OPEN...it continuity exists, check your points-bolt assembly.

Some notes:

The hardware stack on the Pointsbolt has fiber shoulder-washers intended to keep it centered with respect to the hole through the distrib housing...it also has a flat fiber insulator resembling paper (approximately .5" X 1.0") which is intended to insulate the points-spring from the housing...finally, and last on the inside of housing, should be the square, stepped plate (which the points spring should be located behind when assembled). If any of these insulators are out of place or the plate is rotated, a connection to the housing will disable the ignition easily...

If the shoulders of the fiber washers have been worn by years of handling, they may not center the bolt adequately (and if they have been replaced with Nylon washers, who knows what else is not quite right...are they even shoulder washers???) ...one needs to be acutely aware of this...an uncentered bolt can short to the housing and intermittently or permanently connecting this critical point to chassis...the action is as though the points are permanently closed, and since the spark occurs when the points open, no spark will be available. In addition to centering the bolt before securing, I have installed a centering sleeve on all mine....cut from a short length of the circular insulation sleeve of a crimp, it guarantees the bolt will not short out to the housing!

Good Hunting and Greetings from New England!

Suggested reading: http://www.sw-em.com/Volvo%20Ignitio...%20Scratch.htm

Cvives · Jul 15th, 2012, 00:18

Derek, 133 and Ron....Thanks for the great input. I have someplace to start and it sounds like a strong possibility to cure the problem. I really appreciate all your help and suggestions and hope to now move from Volvo 101 to 102!

Cvives · Jul 15th, 2012, 19:32

I found the clip holding the spring in place was grounding...... Running fine now. Thanks to all.

Jul 14th, 2012, 16:33	#1
Cvives New Member Last Online: Oct 7th, 2012 13:34 Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Albuquerque	Starting problem Just changed the points, condensor, rotor and cap, after changing the plugs and wires. now it turns over fine, but appears to have no spark. After changing the plugs and wires and before making the changes to the distributor, it started fine. Any suggestions on what I may have done or failed to do? Thanks

Jul 14th, 2012, 18:48	#2
tony lewis Senior Member Last Online: Dec 3rd, 2016 14:03 Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: conwy	if your a novice this may be useful if you know what your doin i'm sorry to be pointin out the bleedin obvious....are the plug leads goin from the right point to the right cylinder? have you touched the fuse box wires that go to the coil? is the dizzy cap on the right way round? are the wires to the coil ok connected properly at both ends etc? is your coil faulty? have you set the timing properly on the dizzy?

Jul 14th, 2012, 19:26	#3
Derek UK VOC Member Last Online: Yesterday 14:56 Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Chatham	Depending on your distributor and the type of points it uses, you may have the points shorting out via the spring where it fixes to the bolt through the metal body. The order of the washers, both metal and nylon, are critical. Also if they get a bit distorted that can also allow the spring to touch the body. If all is well you will get a small spark across the points, ignition on, if you flick them open. No spark if shorted out. As it was running fine before you serviced the distributor you should be able to ignore most of the reasons in the previous post.............

Jul 14th, 2012, 19:34	#4
Cvives New Member Last Online: Oct 7th, 2012 13:34 Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Albuquerque	Have the feeling it is shorting out somewhere Or more likely the order of the washers...... I am a novice ( trying to learn) .... Thanks for your advice and parience

Jul 14th, 2012, 19:50	#5
Cvives New Member Last Online: Oct 7th, 2012 13:34 Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Albuquerque	Would you know the order of the nylon and metal washers?

Jul 14th, 2012, 20:55	#6
Volvo_133 VOC member Last Online: Jun 4th, 2024 15:40 Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Sheffield	Hi, If you have the 2 seperate piece type points.The small section of the points is fixed to dizzy base plate, which is earthed to the car.The bigger piece with the spring steel section, must connect to the screw/stud which has the black low tension wire from the coil. Where the screw passes through the distributor, and the spring steel point section must not touch the casing of the distributor. Build up the points as above and you should have a car that starts.

Jul 14th, 2012, 22:59	#7
Ron Kwas Premier Member Last Online: Today 00:10 Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Connecticut, USA	Cvives; As others have pointed out, the Pointsbolt and the spring of the (two-part) points must be insulated from the dist housing or you will have the (no-spark) symptoms. I expect this is what's causing your ignition issue...it is an easy beginner's mistake...a simple way to verify this error condition is to check for continuity to chassis of this node with IGN OFF and WHILE POINTS ARE OPEN...it should be electrically OPEN...it continuity exists, check your points-bolt assembly. Some notes: The hardware stack on the Pointsbolt has fiber shoulder-washers intended to keep it centered with respect to the hole through the distrib housing...it also has a flat fiber insulator resembling paper (approximately .5" X 1.0") which is intended to insulate the points-spring from the housing...finally, and last on the inside of housing, should be the square, stepped plate (which the points spring should be located behind when assembled). If any of these insulators are out of place or the plate is rotated, a connection to the housing will disable the ignition easily... If the shoulders of the fiber washers have been worn by years of handling, they may not center the bolt adequately (and if they have been replaced with Nylon washers, who knows what else is not quite right...are they even shoulder washers???) ...one needs to be acutely aware of this...an uncentered bolt can short to the housing and intermittently or permanently connecting this critical point to chassis...the action is as though the points are permanently closed, and since the spark occurs when the points open, no spark will be available. In addition to centering the bolt before securing, I have installed a centering sleeve on all mine....cut from a short length of the circular insulation sleeve of a crimp, it guarantees the bolt will not short out to the housing! Good Hunting and Greetings from New England! Suggested reading: http://www.sw-em.com/Volvo%20Ignitio...%20Scratch.htm

Jul 15th, 2012, 00:18	#8
Cvives New Member Last Online: Oct 7th, 2012 13:34 Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Albuquerque	Derek, 133 and Ron....Thanks for the great input. I have someplace to start and it sounds like a strong possibility to cure the problem. I really appreciate all your help and suggestions and hope to now move from Volvo 101 to 102!

Jul 15th, 2012, 19:32	#9
Cvives New Member Last Online: Oct 7th, 2012 13:34 Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Albuquerque	I found the clip holding the spring in place was grounding...... Running fine now. Thanks to all.

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