Replacing the turbo

[chris810]

I am going to remove my turbo pending further investigation its a 185 D5 can some one tell me on a scale of 1-10 ( 1 being say front engine mount replacemjent, and 10 being fear engine mount replacement ) how difficult this is ?

[osullivant]

Originally Posted by chris810

I am going to remove my turbo pending further investigation its a 185 D5 can some one tell me on a scale of 1-10 ( 1 being say front engine mount replacemjent, and 10 being fear engine mount replacement ) how difficult this is ?

Using your scale I would say 35.....

I have done it twice and it is horribe. I can post details and tips here if you are interested....

what is wrong with your turbo,

[chris810]

Thats what i thought i am chasing oil usage and thought that if it was reasonable to replace i would take it off and have it inspected for worn seals etc, however as i cant even see it i wanted a bit of advice from those who have been there

[osullivant]

Originally Posted by chris810

Thats what i thought i am chasing oil usage and thought that if it was reasonable to replace i would take it off and have it inspected for worn seals etc, however as i cant even see it i wanted a bit of advice from those who have been there

best test for oil destination is whether it is showing up at the entrance to the intercooler.

if nene here it is probably a bad pcv issue....

when I bought mine the previous owner had drilled a small hole which he had blocked with a self trapping screw in the plastic pipe running under the engine. I think he used this to drain oil that had passed through the turbo.

I'll post instructions for turbo removal later when I get to a pc.

tony

[osullivant]

Originally Posted by osullivant

....

I'll post instructions for turbo removal later when I get to a pc.

tony

If, I was going at it again this is how I would do it, I have done it twice and these instructions are from memory.

1. Jack the car up on blocks both sides so that there is about 4 inches under the front wheels( I use solid concrete blocks with hardwood blocks so it is rock solid ( I really worry about axle stands)

2. disconnect the battery, drain the oil from the sump.

3. Take off the engine cover, top engine mounting/ bar across, the rear part of the engine cover, take off the connections to the DPF sensor, the Turbo actuator, Sensors on the DPF, remove the ecm/ airbox maf, pipes from the PCV etc. I cut the rubber section of the coolant pipe going to the turbo (it is about 3 inches long and will save you taking off many more pieces ( vacum pump injection pump EGR etc) disconnect the OIL feed pipe. take off the DPF sensor pipes which are fixed to a bracket on the side of the turbo. disconnect the plastic pipe from the rubber pipe to the intercooler near the oil filter,

4.take out the bolts holding on the heatshield on the manifold, disconnect the water pipe at the turbo that comes from the upper driver side of the head. disconnect the sensors on the DPF/cat and remove the heatshield, (vida says remove these but I broke one trying to remove it and left both in place the second time with no problem). open the bolts holding the DPF to the turbo.

4. get in under the car, take off the tinny crossmember type thing just under and slightly behind the propeller shaft/ bevel gear joint. (mind the brake pipes clipped onto this, disconnect the electrical sensor connection on the Cat? /DPF along with the two rubber pipes from the dpf pressure sensor.

5. take out the two bolts that hold the plastic pipe onto the underside of the engine, with your incredibly long flexible 1/4 drive 7mm socket open the hose clip on the top of the resonator box, by reaching up from behind the cross/member. open the hose clip on the lower end of the resonator box, pull off the resonator box take a look up at the turbo. ( this where you see the oil dropping into your eye if the seals are gone) with a torx take off the oil return pipe from the underside. take out the two bolts holding the drivers side drive shaft at the intermediate bearing.

6. get out from under the car, take off the drivers front wheel, if you can open the center bolt and push out the drive shaft then take off as much as you need to get the drive shaft out ( mine are seized so it was off with the track rod, drop link, ball joint , caliper, disk, bearing etc). (mind the abs sensor cable)

7. back under the car open the 6 bolts on the propeller shaft to the bevel gear, if you put it in neutral the shaft can be turned so you can work your way around them by putting in park which will hold it in place.

8. take off the strap across the exhaust tunnel, lower the rear box( I put it on a jack so it was not fully on the ground and then drop the bearing in the middle of the prop shaft this will allow the shaft/ bevel gear joint to separate. (put a piece of 2x1 timber as a prop to push the propeller shaft up and out of the way.

9. take off the oil cooler and push it up and out of the way ( I left the water pipes connected) take off the turbo oil return pipe it is just a case of wiggling it out, open the bolts holding the rear bracket holding the bevel gear in place. and the two bolts holding the DPF in place

10 take out the 7 bolts that join the bevel gear to the gearbox the top of these are really buried and difficult to get at. this will leave the bevel gear hanging on the collar that provides the drive to the rear, this is about 70mm long so the gear must slide about that amount towards the drivers side, to make this easier I cut some of the bracket that sits under the steering rack ( approx 60mm by 30mm.)

11. Now wiggle and shout and curse at the bevel gear and it will slide out into the space you just created and drop down. it is heavy and it is an idea to put a rope on it and have an apprentice hold it from above ( i was on my own so I put the bar back across the engine bay and tied the rope to this) some ATF may pour out, more will come out if you choose to pull out the collar that joins the bevel gear to the transmission

12 Now you can see the turbo in all its glory, take off the three bolts onto the manifold and wiggle it out and drop it down, again the rope helps.

Reverse to put it all back, (get new bolts and gaskets from your friendly volvo man) I think it is impossible to put it back without cutting the notch from the bracket.

your best friend will be a good torx set with half inch drive some of these bolts on the turbo are really tight and tend to shear, also a 1/4 drive on a long flexi with extensions so that you can get about 18 inches long, this will let you get to awkward places.... but in truth I think I used every tool I own including heavy hammers prybars sockets of every type but that flexi extension was the most surprisingly useful piece by far as you will find because so many of the bolts are visible but cannot be got at head on and without a really square grasp on the bolts it is easy to round them off ( then you need your dremel or drill.....)

Best of luck and take care.

PS..

If you have VIDA I would really like to see a video of the actuator being activated before you remove it as mine is acting up. If you are scrapping a Turbo I might be interested in the actuator.

I went down the route of fitting a new core but did not realise that the turbo needed to be calibrated after I had put it together, or that vida has a adaptation for doing it so I had it repaired and I think they made a bags of the Actuator but I have about 80% of the power I ought to have but very high levels of boost at times.

[chris810]

Thanks for the guide i assume that was on a 185 ? I have been to a local turbo specialist today and talked through the issue at length, i am doing some investigation to try and isolate the problem to the turbo as i dont need to use the car at the moment, if you want an actuator pm me as i have one turbo on the car and two spares each with actuator, my specialist will look at mine and refurbish it, as he mentioned that the small nylon gears inside often wear and cause issues therefore i have one spare.

[philbrad73]

Hi I've done this both ways, the second time I done it. I took the turbo out of from the top, the hardest part about it is getting a 2 torx screws out on the oil return pipe underneath the turbo. if you can get them out using 1/4 drive with a knuckle and extensions. Remove the exhaust manifold and the turbo DOES come out the top. Alot easier than the way the manual says.

[rsymes2k]

Have you tried a smoke test (they do it on MOT)? That would find any leaks? I had it done to check the intercooler?

[osullivant]

Originally Posted by philbrad73

Hi I've done this both ways, the second time I done it. I took the turbo out of from the top, the hardest part about it is getting a 2 torx screws out on the oil return pipe underneath the turbo. if you can get them out using 1/4 drive with a knuckle and extensions. Remove the exhaust manifold and the turbo DOES come out the top. Alot easier than the way the manual says.

Are you referring to a 185?.

My first attempt I thought I could get it out the top but simply could not do so.

Is it really possible? did you strip off EGR Vacum Pump etc, I need to redo my swirl valves so if I thought it would come out the top I might give it a go again..

A really long flexible drive will allow access to the torx bolts, I had a leak in mine after I had the whole thing in place and had very little trouble getting at them to fit new gasket....

Tony.

[Clan]

Originally Posted by chris810

I am going to remove my turbo pending further investigation its a 185 D5 can some one tell me on a scale of 1-10 ( 1 being say front engine mount replacemjent, and 10 being fear engine mount replacement ) how difficult this is ?

The manual says take it out through the transmission tunnel after removing the angle gear . after struggling for days exploring other ways ,, you will find this the best method ...