Are all V70 driveshafts the same?

[BobS]

Hi all,

Today the lower balljoint snapped taking out the inner CV joint with it.
My question is there any difference in driveshaft between a petrol, diesel, auto or manual?

I know that neadside and offside are different. But not sure about other differences.

Also can the inner joint be reassembled? I have in the past removed the outer CV joint and dismantled it for cleaning and re-greasing. Can this be done on the inner. I can't find any info on doing this.


Thanks
Bob

[reggit]

They’re certainly different between auto and manual, not sure about petrol/diesel.

[Georgeandkira]

The OP's car has to have more than a few miles on it.....so since any repair starts with removing the axle I suggest skipping the axle repair route and get a new or rebuilt axle. It'll just pop in right after the old one goes out.

You'll have 2 new CV joints and saved time and money (if a garage is doing the work).

Did the stud of the ball joint break?

[BobS]

Hi,

The car now has 190k on the clock. But this driveshaft was changed about 50k ago. Hence my hesitation to fit a new one.

Both ball joints and lower wishbones were changed and have done about 80k.
All parts were OEM.

Fortunatly the balljoint failed (yes the stud sheared off) as I was moving off within 3ft. I dread to think what would of happened at any speed.

Thanks for the replies.
Bob

[oragex]

Originally Posted by BobS

Hi,

The car now has 190k on the clock. But this driveshaft was changed about 50k ago. Hence my hesitation to fit a new one.

Both ball joints and lower wishbones were changed and have done about 80k.
All parts were OEM.

Fortunatly the balljoint failed (yes the stud sheared off) as I was moving off within 3ft. I dread to think what would of happened at any speed.

Thanks for the replies.
Bob

Surprised to hear an OEM balljoint to shear at 80K miles, they make get some play but not shear the stud. I'd guess the mechanic who did the job wasn't that honest about the parts he used. When you punch it out, look at the top of it for a small triangle, it's the Lemforder brand which furnishes the Volvo ones. If the triangle is not there, it may explain a few things.

As for the axle, on top of what was already mentioned, I know the turbo and non turbo ones on the automatic cars are also not the same. So it seems the choices come pretty short.

[BobS]

Originally Posted by oragex

Surprised to hear an OEM balljoint to shear at 80K miles, they make get some play but not shear the stud. I'd guess the mechanic who did the job wasn't that honest about the parts he used. When you punch it out, look at the top of it for a small triangle, it's the Lemforder brand which furnishes the Volvo ones. If the triangle is not there, it may explain a few things.

As for the axle, on top of what was already mentioned, I know the turbo and non turbo ones on the automatic cars are also not the same. So it seems the choices come pretty short.

Hi,,

Work was done by myself so sure parts were OEM. Begining to think (hope!) it was a rare manufacturing defect. Don't remember hitting any big potholes (at least on that side).

Just glad it happened when it did!

Thanks
Bob

[Georgeandkira]

What brand was the replacement axle?

Posters are frequently "hands off" Volvo owners. You're proficient so have a go at it.
If there was any chance of the axle having taken a shot and being bent even a wee bit, I'd get a rebuild.

[BobS]

Hi,

Have done my own repairs and servicing on every car I owned for 40 years now so comfortable in repair and replacing the parts needed.

The driveshaft was an OEM part (Hence my reluctance to replace it).

My main concern is not finding all the parts and not having a diagram of the assembly.

Thanks
Bob

[oragex]

Another possible cause for a broken ball joint rod can be presence of grease on the rod, even a tiny amount, which would lead to overtorque and stretching the rod near the breaking point at the moment of tightening the nut (the nut would feel like it doesn't get tight despite keeping torquing it down)

[BobS]

Originally Posted by oragex

Another possible cause for a broken ball joint rod can be presence of grease on the rod, even a tiny amount, which would lead to overtorque and stretching the rod near the breaking point at the moment of tightening the nut (the nut would feel like it doesn't get tight despite keeping torquing it down)

Hi,

Everything was torqued to the book. The stud sheared at the ball end it probably is the weakest part of the stud. Will examine when I get it out.

Thanks
Bob