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200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
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240 Estate (+expert advice) needed for featureViews : 1336 Replies : 13Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jun 27th, 2006, 12:35 | #1 |
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240 Estate (+expert advice) needed for feature
Hi
I'm putting together a feature on the Volvo 240 Estate for Car Mechanics magazine's 'Cars To Keep Forever' series. I need a car to photograph to 'star' in the feature, preferably not too long a drive from the Peterborough/South Lincs area. Any offers? I'm also looking for advice from owners on what's good and bad about these cars – what bits do break and wear out, and what bits seem to be bomb-proof; the best places to source parts from cheaply (is anything hard to get?); what to check when buying one; which are the best models; what are they like to live with (easy to work on?). Any advice on the above (or anything else about 240 Estates you feel might be relevant) would be gratefully received. You can post replies here or e-mail to: too_plus_two@yahoo.co.uk Regards Russ Smith |
Jun 27th, 2006, 13:13 | #2 |
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Hi Russ, Does this mean there will be 3 Volvos in the "Cars to Keep Forever" series ( Volvo 440, Volvo 940 and Volvo 240) ? Which month will the feature be in?
ivor940 |
Jun 27th, 2006, 13:30 | #3 |
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no mention of the 740 estate?
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1997 Volvo 940 LPT Celebration. 187,700 miles, manual. |
Jun 27th, 2006, 13:31 | #4 |
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Hello russ, don't forget a brief mention of the growing popularity with the younger crowd, check out the project cars on here.
I'm sure someone must be able to provide a good car for you |
Jun 27th, 2006, 13:48 | #5 |
Not an expert but ...
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You've had a look at the High Mileage listings, I presume? Plenty there that are clearly being kept forever.
The simple answer seems to be that not only is the metalwork exceptionally long-lasting, but most of the mechanical components too. The engines are of course famous for clocking up high mileages, but in my experience virtually every component wears much better than other cars. It seems as if Volvo somehow managed to specify better build quality in their sub-contractors' parts too. In my experience that goes for gearbox, clutch, wheel bearings, alternator, steering rack, battery, shock absorbers, brake discs, etc. But not the plastic door pockets, nor the central console thing round the handbrake. It really ought to be made strong enough for children to walk on. Oh yes, and the driver's seat only lasts 250,000 miles before it starts to sag. |
Jun 27th, 2006, 15:01 | #6 |
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Some of the strong points:
Safety Easy to work on, both for independent garages and the home mechanic Bulletproof engine and drivetrain Cheap and plentiful parts Comfortable seats Some of the weaknesses: Windscreen leaks Rustprone floor Inaccessible blower motor Tailgate wiring harness Engine harness Relay locations Rear lights collect water
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Jun 27th, 2006, 16:06 | #7 | |
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Quote:
The feature is set to run in the September issue, out late August. Russ |
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Jun 27th, 2006, 18:21 | #8 |
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I have owned and worked on 240s since the late 80s. The most desireable model has to be the GLT. With the higher ratio rear axle combined with the 2.3 engine it provides fast relaxed cruising. It also has the better shocks lowered springs and heavier anti-roll bar as standard which gives fairly adequate handling. With some minor tweeks the handling can be vastly improved as has happened to our cars. We currently run a 1987 GLT pictured below which works hard for its living usually with a good load on board. It now has 280k on the clock the last 80k in my ownership over in 28 months. During this period it has undergone preventative maintenance to ensure survival for many miles to come. Basically it has had new steering rack, front and rear suspension overhaul and upgrade. This year has seen new master cylinder, front calipers and discs all round. I run the car on 205/65 x 15 on they last me about 12 months. The next vehicle of mine is a 1985 2.0 GLE saloon of Italian origins - seems to have a rather interesting cam which makes it the most rapid 2.0 I've ever driven. I also have a French origin 1981 GLE which has had a 2.3 turbo fitted along with usual suspension mods. It is a very quick motor although temporarily off the road at present. My son also runs a 1989 244 GLT. This has been treated to the usual yoof treatment including tinted windows, purple wheels and a mega sound system. We have also converted a 244 into a pick-up (below) and an estate into a much used trialer (below)
The great thing about 240s apart from the superb build quality (my GLT has just had a replacement head due to head gasket failure but bottom engine still going strong) is the ease of working on them and cheap parts. Very little seams unavailable from Volvo and many parts are very reasonably priced. Copy parts are available from amongst others Nordic Car Company, Euro Car Parts, and GSF. Our local factors also can supply a lot of parts as well. Quality of non Volvo parts is not always good. I've had strut tops, track road ends, ball joints and steering rack gaiters fail in under 12 months. Often Volvo parts are only slightly more expensive and therefore cheaper in the long run. I now always check price and availabilty with Volvo first and the decide whether secondary market part is a good buy. When it comes to dealer only parts as yet we have not be in the situation of not getting a part, even if there has been a wait for a few weeks for more to be made. If you require any further info I always happy to talk 240 - call me 01407 832290. Mike
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Jun 27th, 2006, 21:12 | #9 |
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I've owned a 1990 DL Estate from new, and have the complete service history. The problem with highlighting 'weak points' is that it would have to be model specific - for example the wiring harness degrades in the engine bay for IIRC 1986 - 1988 model years, the plastic sided radiators seem to last no longer than 12 years, the aluminium head is sensitive to the wrong antifreeze, the M45 gearbox was probably the strongest fitted, automatic boxes get ruined when the (plastic sided) radiator fails internally and mixes water with the ATF, UK versions are high compression because of our expensive fuel - so don't miss a timing belt change, the fuel pump relay in injection systems heats up a bit in use and fails from time to time, the top of the in tank sender rusts away after about 15 years, and the alternator brushes last about 70K miles and finding someone to just sell you the regulator/brush pack is not always easy - oh yes, also the magnets come unstuck in the wiper motor after about 12 years, and the gear lever top on manuals doesn't like the sun - I'm on about my fifth at 12 quid a go.
Last edited by Glen Morangie; Jun 27th, 2006 at 21:21. |
Jun 28th, 2006, 09:00 | #10 |
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Thanks to everyone who has replied so far – there's some brilliant advice in there which I shall be using. I'm still happy, though, to hear from others – and I'm still looking for that car to photograph, so is there anyone withing, say, about 75 miles of Peterborough with something suitable?
Russ |
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