Replacing suspension bushes

[Rustinmotion]

I’m just starting to replace all the rear suspension bushes on my 220 estate, not surprisingly all the bolts are seized
Any tips on this job?

[Derek UK]

Put your patience hat on and soak any seized nuts with Plus-Gas penetrant. Wire brush all of them first. WD-40 is pretty useless for this job. Spray twice daily for a week. (possibly) but you can give the nuts a try as you go along. Not uncommon for the bolts to seize in the bushes. If ordering bushes, bite the bullet and order new nuts/bolts/washers at the same time. Good luck.

[Burdekin]

As per Derek's advice but also clean all threads exposed with a wire wheel or brush as well and then use a good impact gun. The bolts do seem to get rusted in the bushes as well so plenty of anti-seize when fitting new.

Oh and get comfy under there, it can be a long day. :-)

[142 Guy]

Penetrating lubricants are pretty much all the same. Acetone mixed with automatic transmission fluid is an effective penetrating lubricant and you can vary the ATF / acetone ratio to deal with the specific requirements. Thinner works into the rust area better; but, also drips off faster.

There is no chemical action associated with penetrating oils. You need to leave it ln place long enough for it to seep through a hopefully incomplete rust surface. If the rust has formed an extensive barrier that might coincide with the second coming.

If the penetrating oil and conventional tools don't work out, you might want to consider the heavy hitters:

Heat - the expansion associated with rapidly heating the nut may crack the rust bond. You really need an Oxy Acetylene torch with a small tip for this. For obvious reasons do not use this method if you have already applied penetrating oil. For me it is a last resort because of the set-up hassle and the potential for peripheral damage.

Cut off wheel - The only thing that ever broke in my 17 years of ownership of a Honda Pilot SUV were the rear sway bar links. They were solidly rusted in place and I was not prepared to wait for the second coming so I fired up the air compressor and brought out my rotary cut-off tool. Two minutes and the nut and bolt were gone. On large bolts a Dremel with cut off is not an option - you will burn up the Dremel before you cut the nut off. A hack saw is a substitute if you have space, a strong arm and patience.

Impact wrench - I was always skeptical about electric impact wrenches; but, my Son recently purchased a De Walt rechargeable one and with a high mass socket this thing does a remarkable job. Plus, its useful on lots of other stuff once you get it.

Big-ass breaker bar - I have a 3/4" drive breaker bar which has provision for a 70" long handle for 'special purposes'. If the nut does not release with a 15 stone 'operator' you can generate enough torque to twist 1/2" or 5/8" bolts right off. 3/4" sockets are expensive and its definitely not a finesse tool and will definitely not work in tight spaces.

Heat and cut off wheels require significant investment in other assets such as air compressors. If penetrating oil and a regular breaker bar does not work, I would try a good impact wrench just because it is a tool with other uses. However, you need to use the impact wrench before you round off the flats on the nut. Once the nut gets rounded off a cut off wheel is your primary option or a hack saw if you have access.

+1 on applying anti seize lubricant to everything in sight during re assembly. Anti seize on a vintage car that sees more frequent maintenance is your friend.

[Rustinmotion]

Nuts are coming off, one with the aid of a nut splitter, panhard to chassis is out all the other bolts are solid so I’m applying the last of my expensive kroil and a plus gas product
Nut gun is being delivered Thursday I don’t mind buying tools il use again
Hopefully by weekend they will work loose if not it’s the recip saw if I can get it in

[Rustinmotion]

Just tried fitting the refurbished panhard rod and the pin on the axle is 7/8 and the new bush is 3/4
There is no choice of different diameters so not sure what’s going on, any suggestions?

[Quarterless]

Had the same issue with mine. Air hacksaw sorted the issue.

[powen1]

Did you take off the metal sleeve on the pin ? I fitted poly bush to mine

[Rustinmotion]

Originally Posted by powen1

Did you take off the metal sleeve on the pin ? I fitted poly bush to mine

The metal sleeve came off with the old rubber bush unless there are two of them

[Derek UK]

The Panhard bushings are different on the Estate and have no sleeves. Each end has a different part number so possibly have different internal diameters. Body end bushing #662797. Axle end #666416.
It's a nut and bolt at the body end with no washer. Axle end is just a nut and washer to the fixed to axle bolt.
Don't confuse these bushes to the saloon ones which are #80733 and use a sleeve at the body end. Poly alternative not advised at the body end as it transmits a lot of noise into the body.