Quote:
Originally Posted by Familyman 90
Just a thought...Daughters feller has an older Focus ST with the 5 banger engine. If you come up short trying to find a Volvo man suitably qualified to do the work then a search for Focus ST/RS specialists may find you one.
Best of luck. It's going to be an expensive pain, but sounds like a great car so worth making the investment.
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Team that I'm talking to assembled a few of them - couple with a 500+ hp output too. Yeah, it's a lot of money but to me, it's worth it. Car is a legend worth keeping alive and well
Quote:
Originally Posted by DunkinBiskits
get a 2002 or later 2.3 (02/03/04) the 01 rods and pistons are still 139.5mm with an ME7 version of the N motor piston, unless youre buying rods AND pistons, in which case it has the lighter crank then thats a good candidate.
i actually have 5x 147mm rods here i removed and replaced with H beams if theyre of any use if youre considering new pistons (not the worst idea tbh)
yes, custom pistons if you want over 420bhp safely (so the ringlands dont crack off) but stock pistons come in +0.2 and 0.4mm oversizes at about 90 pounds a piston.
yes, keep 850 oil pump
if you keep your 850 head yes the ignition bits wont need modifying
i just used an RNC prepped 2004 2.3 (rarest of rare - only occur within a 6 month range from what i can find) for my latest build, had it rebored to 82mm, had DP Engine Parts design me bespoke pistons, skimmed head, MLS S60R head gasket, kept the crank that came with the block as its substantially lighter than the N crank, new mains on the crank using block and crank code, and ACL race bearings for the big ends.
few pictures of the custom pistons attached
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DunkinBiskits
if you want OE pistons you need to have good straight bores within 81-81.4mm, but if you buy pistons stay sub 82mm. Wiseco do 81.5mm and 81.75mm i think. once you go over that there isnt much liner left and its a MUST you shim the expansion gap between the liners to avoid cracking due to flex. Basically what kills the 83mm bore engines, which people end up having to drop Dartons into when they crack (not cheap)
i shim anything i take the top off these days just because.
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Thnx mate! The idea here is to keep the engine relatively stock - I'm aiming at 300-ish hp max so the only aftermarket thing I'm thinking about would be the rods as they're the weakest part of the engine. So, I'd do the following:
- Keep stock head (rebuilt, of course)
- Go for overbore and use stock / Mahle, 2nd oversize pistons (+0,4mm)
- Go for H-beam forged connecting rods (set is around 300-ish EUR)
For the sake of not making this more expensive as it needs to be, I'm probably going to use the same (stock) crankshaft, with new bearings, of course. Anyways, that's the idea - we'll see how things stand once the engine is taken apart and how much work is needed. I'm also going to want the engine balanced well as a whole.
I'd also like to figure out what exhaust & intake manifold to use. Should I keep them stock and port them or just go for another model ones that fit bolt-on.
Thank you again!