View Single Post
Old Aug 31st, 2021, 12:07   #8
Laird Scooby
Premier Member
 
Laird Scooby's Avatar
 

Last Online: Yesterday 23:05
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lakenheath
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jonnyf90 View Post
Yeah, so when first starting and tickover is 1200rpm or so, it's not noticeable, only when it reverts to 800 it starts shaking, definitely not the smoothness of the 6 that it should be.

I went through and removed each coil in turn which made no difference to idle, and all the plugs look fine and "equally" coloured.

Not sure if replacing the whole thing with a 3.0 from a scrapper would be a better bet. 170bhp isn't enough anymore

Cheers
Removing each coil pack in turn made no difference to the idle when it was misfiring?

In that case, it's not a rhythmic misfire and chances are, it's not an injector either. If it idles ok at first after driving then starts getting worse, i would suspect the hydraulic lifters are "bleeding down" and/or sticky due to being dirty. Try adding 0.5L of either Carlube ATF-U, NAPA MV or a similar ATF to the engine oil. It won't have an instant effect, it can take a while before things improve.
I had a very similar thing on my Jeep Cherokee, after driving it would idle smoothly at first then get progressively lumpier. Also when it was cold it had 3 sticky lifters that sounded like 3 pile drivers inside the engine!

I added about a litre of ATF-U to the engine (bigger sump capacity, hence more ATF) and drove it. After about 1000 miles, it always idled smoothly, even from cold where it fired first touch on all 6 cylinders with no knock from any tappets. There were other benefits too but i suspect you'll find those if you add some ATF to the engine oil in yours.
__________________
Cheers
Dave

Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........
Laird Scooby is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Laird Scooby For This Useful Post: