Alan - i think our posts crossed and then i had a power cut here! No roast dinner today, cheese andpeanut butter sarnies instead!
Anyhow, i digress!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Othen
Hi Dave,
I agree that is normally the way headlamps are arranged - so they may be removed without altering the alignment - but you may see in one of my other posts that it does not seem to be the case with these ones. Here is a photo of the offending part:
... you seem the captive ball joint is rivetted to the chassis, and the nylon bush through which it screws is rivetted to the light unit, so the only way of separating the lamps from the chassis is to screw the adjuster all the way through the back (well, that is the only way I can see, unless someone knows better). I think I described the solution as being rather Saabesque (not a compliment) in the other post.
It might well be possible to change the lamps with their sub-frames to a later type - in the fullness of time I might do that.
It looks like someone (maybe Volvo, or a dealer) may have added the fog lamps from early days, the switch (the one on the left) looks like it is designed to fit a 240 and there appears to be a little bit of neat wiring loom behind it:
Unfortunately whilst the switch works, there is no power going to it under any conditions, so perhaps it was disconnected? All 4 of the fog/driving lamps are controlled by the very scruffy aftermarket switch in the middle which is held in by some bluetac and has a permanent live feed, which is not acceptable. Having checked the original looking switch works, I'll power it from the headlamps and use that to switch the lights, then get rid of the ugly switch in the middle and find a Volvo blanking plate from eBay.
I'm not sure about keeping all 4 lamps - I think the outer two look a bit daft, and they well disappear when I get round to sorting this problem. I agree I won't need a relay to run just two fog lamps, the wiring will be quite capable of handling a little extra.
Thank you for the information about silicone grease - I did use it (I buy it from Screwfix, intended for plumbers but it would really well on motorbikes and cars). The Vasaline is more for items that need a bit of protection from the elements like battery terminals. It works well on door hinges as well, and stays in place for a while.
My car has a sunroof, which slides pretty well and seals up, I didn't know it might tilt, how would I get it to do that?
Many thanks again for your help and advice, I'm enjoying the Royal Barge project, it is a nice car and I think I can improve it quite a bit at almost no cost with a bit of work and thought. I have several threads running - to do with different issues, and I'm pleased to say contributors have been really helpful.
I can't put off walking Bob (the dog) any longer, we will have to brave this storm :-)
Alan |
Looking at the pics of your headlamp installation, it very much looks like it was done by an "It'll fit!" merchant. In other words, it's only going to be done once, don't care how they're fitted.
Later lights might well be an option, if so get not only the lights and any mounting plates etc but the grille, indicators/sidelight units that go with them (Volvo made subtle changes to the fixings over the years for the indicator/sidelight units) and as much as you possibly can get with them.
That will aid the retrofit of the later lights.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Othen
I pulled it off the other day, it has left some very stubborn adhesive patches that need cleaning up - I've tried a few solvents without success, maybe acetone might work?
See my last post above re the extra lights. I think I'll just keep the inner ones and wire them up properly with the original looking fog lamp switch.
Best wishes,
Alan
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Acetone should shift the adhesive but you will have to T-Cut or similar the whole roof (preferably the whole car, the polish it and wax it after - will look amazing!)
If i'm right about the inner lights under the bumper being driving lamps, you can't run them off the front fog switch.
They need to extinguish when main beam goes off and as such won't need a separate switch .
Matching front fogs are available to replace the dodgy looking outer pair of fogs :
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ring-BRL0...s/274089421053
The originals were made by Bosch and supplied as OE and accessory fit by Volvo, Bosch no longer make them but Ring have made them for decades now. Good lamps and suit the 2/7/9 series as well as many others.
That way the outer pair will be fog lights, only working on sidelights or dipped beam, the inner pair will be driving lamps (assuming they are as they appear) only working with full beam.
Couple of points i missed in the quote earlier in this post, NEVER use Vaseline on battery terminals!
It's a petroleum jelly meaning when it gets hot, it carbonises. If it has also run into gaps betwen the battery terminal and the terminal clamp and then carbonised, that will create a resistor causing poor starting, charging and general battery performance.
The sunroof, am i right in thinking there is the name "Golde" embossed/engraced in the handle/escutcheon somewhere? If so, once it is closed, there should be another button, press that and turn the handle in the same direction as you did to close it. That will make it tilt if it's capable. Handy hint here, Ford used the same sunroof mech supplier on late 70s/early 80s Cortinas and similar. Useful if you need to change the handle cassette!