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Old Mar 26th, 2024, 20:52   #9
ChasesDragons
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Last Online: Apr 26th, 2024 14:12
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: NW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gjr0 View Post
I'm a firm believer in letting fuses do the job they were designed to do, so I would not splice the output of fuse #11 and #12 together.

Fuses #11 and #12 are the same rating. What happens if you swap the output wires ? Does the problem change sides ? Do you have a Volt Ohm meter (VOM)? If so, you should have 12V input side of both fuses. How about the output side ? At the connector where the wire to the lights slips on ?

I had problems with the connections in the fuse block being internally corroded (between the riveted together parts), causing all kinds of intermittent problems with the lights on a 220.
That is a great series of trouble shooting manouvres. I do have a Digital Multimeter (hopefully we are talking about the same meter?) I will put it to good use. I did not think about swapping things at the fuse block.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Derek UK View Post
1971 1800E wiring diagram. Note that the number plate lights look to run via the #11 fuse so if they are working check #12.
Oh hello....that's interesting because the Number plate lights were working....WTH is going on??!

Last edited by ChasesDragons; Mar 26th, 2024 at 20:57.
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