Quote:
Originally Posted by Clan
Hi James !
Firstly the 2 ECM codes are being caused by the CEM code so you can ignore those .
It may help if you know how it works :
The pedal sends out 2 signals , One is digital and goes direct to the ECM , the other is analogu a 0 - 5 volt signal varying with throttle position . This goes direct to the CEM and is converted in the CEM and sent on the network system to the ECU . This is like a plane where everything is duplicated .
So the ECU monitors these two signals and they must both give the same reading in the ECU .
This signal is only failing intermittantly so any fault tracing you do is going to show ok you are never going to be lucky enough to catch the sytem in the fail mode to fault trace it .
I would check the wiring plug on the pedal first . unplug it and with a thin terminal of similar size just press it into each socket in the plug one by one to make sure there is drag when you insert and pull it out . This will test that the terminal is in fact gripping the pins in the pedal socket ..
Get some volvo rapid rust loosener 1161658 and spray the socket and put it back .
next remove the CEM and do the same with the relavent plug which contains the pedal signal wire . Check all the CEM pins for corrosion especialy the big green one .
Hopefully this will do the trick although it may be some weeks before you know .
If it still happens you could run a new wire down from the pedal to the CEM .
Changing the pedal is the last thing before changing the CEM or ECM .. I have never found a pedal which is actualy faulty with this problem .
You do get it serviced properly and have the software updates i take it .. The CEM gets updated at every service so you need to know this has the latest software .
I hope that helps ,
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Hi Guys, thanks for your help here some great insights to check. I have a 2010 facelift V50 1.6Eco and have had almost every dodgy wiring issue going from steering lock reset etc. Over the last year have cleaned up all the relays, fuses, cem etc etc and all good. Last issue was throttle pedal one. Various codes pointing to dodgy connections. Took pedal off and cleaned up all contacts and buggered up the plastic bits using modern wd40 (crap) and pedal was no longer smooth but errors went away for a few months. i dont really use the car too much anyway so a few months here doesnt equate to thousands of miles, maybe a 1000 or so. Cant recall codes offhand at the mo but main issue was power reduction and engine service required. You could drive through these for a shortish distance and it would cure itself. But its back again on last trip as I slowed down in traffic, but again a few moments later it cleared itself.
I was going to get a used pedal 4M51-9F836-BK which seems the same as mine despite many differing vehicles using the same one. But I thought I should try your tip on checking voltage pedal to cem. And then it occurred to me lots of these silly problems can often be cured by a software update. Fords were notorious for it. What do you think? If so is there a way to establish what software version I have on the car and what software version is the latest? I guess the latest could be 5yrs old or more but its a good place to start, just ensure you have latest software update? If so how can it be done and what would the costs be ish?
If you think its software first I'll go for that, then the pedal wire to cem, then maybe another pedal and after that if it still happens Im stuffed. Cheers