Quote:
Originally Posted by Exasperant
Cam cover gasket could certainly be contributing to the ick, and has gone on the ever extending list.
Have just removed the PCV and it's worryingly clear. I say worryingly, because I was really hoping to find a problem..
Also quick test drive, the cutting out seems related to braking. Slowing "assertively" (but not harshly) from 40 sees it die at around maybe 20. Very gentle braking doesn't seem to provoke it, or at least not in a repeatable way.
In other news, while messing with the idle control pipework the ABS light came on and now refuses to go off.....
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Did you check the small bore manifold stub on the vac side of the flame trap to ensure it was clear and providing vacuum to the flametrap? If it isn't, it will allow pressure to build in the crankcase causing oil leaks and lack of willingness to idle without extra fuel - also check the idle microswitch is closed when the throttle is released - you can open the throttle by hand under the bonnet and you should hear it click open, likewise when releasing the throttle gently you will hear it click closed again.
You seem (on the face of it) to be losing fuel during braking. Was it you that had the pump/sender unit out? If so, are you sure you got it back in correctly? There are two arrows along an imaginary horizontal line on early cars, just one in the 12 o'clock position on later cars, difficult to see as they're often covered with decades-old dirt, they're faint to start with too.
If you haven't quite got the sender vertical the pump won't be at the bottom of the tank so as you brake, the fuel will run to the front of the tank leaving the pump uncovered.
The idle and ABS warning light aren't connected so it seems to be a coincidence. When you first start the car, does the ABS light go off or does it remain on and does the charge warning light come on at position 2 and go out and remain out once the engine is running?