Quote:
Originally Posted by Laird Scooby
Yes, that can happen. In fact, now you have a working alternator (the 100A one) the symptoms are presenting exactly the same as another B230F powered 940GLE of a similar age that had a duff ECU - would start but wouldn't rev past 3000rpm.
Is it the same ECU??? You need to disconnect the battery -ve lead before swapping ECUs and also leave fuse #1 out. Only replace fuse #1 once the battery has been reconnected.
Pull fuse #1 - the ECU has a memory for faults, fuel trims etc and does indeed have a Limp Mode - not all faults light the Engine Management Light.
Yes, the ECU is more than capable of causing this. A faulty TPS could also cause it by telling the ECU the throttle is closed when you're trying to rev it up.
You really need to get yourself a NOID light, it's not like they're expensive and it will save a lot of time, trouble and head-scratching by simply showing if the injectors are cutting out at 3000rpm.
Do the test Ash described and let us know the outcome.
|
It’s an ecu for b230fb.
But the MAF, does it need to match the ecu? When changing ecu?
Or do I change it aswell
I got ECUand EZK for B230FB
Well Ash, it’s your choice to help me or not. I appreciate your help, your help aswel, Dave
The noid light. Really, I need to get one then.
But the symptoms of not reving more than 3000rpm. It happened on the 100a alternator. Didn’t happen in my 65ampere
So, what I should try next is
Record my injectors with noid light
2. Try changing ECU and EZK
3. Install my 100ampere again.
Tps can also be causing problems hm. But I did measure it. But I don’t remember my readings, gotta measure again.