Quote:
Originally Posted by eeedelli
I'm not sure what I've got in the garage re:ATF. Does the brand really make that much difference? Surely they should all be to the same spec as ATF anyway shouldn't they? If I have to order in a specific one then that's going to delay the job yet again.
I suspect that the main problem, however, is that the female metal end of the hose points downwards, with the pipe nut going up into it and the interface of the two is difficult to reach because of the spring clip and bracket completely blocking access. How on earth do you manage to run the dismantling fluid upwards into there (short of turning the car on its roof!  ) I know it's supposed to 'creep' (up to a point) but that seems a bit ... er... 'optimistic' in this case. I thought that about the PlusGas but at least I was able to spray that in vaguely the right direction. |
I was specific about the ATF as there are lots of different types. Both those i mentioned are synthetic with a viscosity of SAE 32 so it can be used as jack oil as well if you have a hydraulic jack but also can be used in your auto box and PAS system. Being synthetic, the molecules are smaller so the creep effect is better. Mineral ATF such as Dexron II-D does not work anywhere near as well. I've not tried Dexron-III but that may work, the two i mentioned i have tried and know they work.
Once you've got it mixed 50/50 with the acetone, spray, brush or dribble it on the top of the union. Think about it - the pipe is flared and the flare meets a "cone" in the union and they form a pressure tight seal. There is no such seal from the body of the nut to the brake pipe so the WMP (Weapon of Mass Penetration = 50/50 acetone/ATF) can run downwards past the seal to where you need it, inside the threads.
As for Plus-Gas, it was ok 30 years ago but not so good these days, ditto for WD40 and many others.