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Tam9n · Jun 24th, 2022, 16:38

Hi all,

Just wanted to share some feedback incase it proves useful for someone else but I finally got the new spring in!

Recap: I had a nightmare try to change a spring lately, I ordered a KYB RA7007 (which is heavy duty which I didn’t realise until afterwards!). I used internal spring compressors and every trick in the book, dropping control arms etc but to no avail.

The issue I had was getting the top and bottom aligned, and the bottom popped right back out.

Ordered a Kilen 66007, and it went straight in.

1) I can confirm I also did it this time by dropping the inner (closest to the exhaust) bolt for the control arm. While having a trolley jack underneath, then released the tension.

2) used tape to wrap the rubber top mounting to the new spring.

3) pushing down on the control arm allowed me eventually to wiggle the new spring roughly into place.

4) I used fairy liquid on the rubber mount at the top, and slowly started to used a scissor jack under the hub.

5) at the same time I used my trolley jack further in on the control arm to slowly lift the control arm and compress the spring.

6) by juggling the height of the two jacks, I got the bolt back in most of the way at the inner console bolt hole. (Note, jacking under the hub with the scissor jack allows the control arm to pull a little outward towards the hub

7) getting the bolt lined up with the thread portion of the hub takes some juggling again. Once I had the console bolt mostly in, I removed the trolley jack from under the inner console arm, and put it under the hub. I then used my scissor jack to help move the console arm as needed. In my case, I put a block of wood on the arch liner, then my scissor jack against the brake caliper and manipulated the arm enough to get the bolt in and threaded.

8.) I compressed the new strut a few times, then quickly posted it up in whole compressed and then bolted it in.

9) jack up to put everything under load then tighten up and bolts, bolt up new drop link etc!

Comparing the KYB against the Kilen, the KYB was not only a good portion heavier, but also a little taller too. The pigtails appeared to stop in slightly different places too, which I always get wasn’t quite right with the KYB spring.

To note, I replaced a stock spring without using my internal spring compressors in the end.. so it can be done! But please make sure you do what you’re comfortable with!

All in all, once I had the correct spring - this really wasn’t too bad.

Thanks for ALL the help and suggestions folks!

Jun 24th, 2022, 16:38	#26
Tam9n New Member Last Online: Aug 14th, 2022 12:04 Join Date: Jun 2022 Location: Belfast	Hi all, Just wanted to share some feedback incase it proves useful for someone else but I finally got the new spring in! Recap: I had a nightmare try to change a spring lately, I ordered a KYB RA7007 (which is heavy duty which I didn’t realise until afterwards!). I used internal spring compressors and every trick in the book, dropping control arms etc but to no avail. The issue I had was getting the top and bottom aligned, and the bottom popped right back out. Ordered a Kilen 66007, and it went straight in. 1) I can confirm I also did it this time by dropping the inner (closest to the exhaust) bolt for the control arm. While having a trolley jack underneath, then released the tension. 2) used tape to wrap the rubber top mounting to the new spring. 3) pushing down on the control arm allowed me eventually to wiggle the new spring roughly into place. 4) I used fairy liquid on the rubber mount at the top, and slowly started to used a scissor jack under the hub. 5) at the same time I used my trolley jack further in on the control arm to slowly lift the control arm and compress the spring. 6) by juggling the height of the two jacks, I got the bolt back in most of the way at the inner console bolt hole. (Note, jacking under the hub with the scissor jack allows the control arm to pull a little outward towards the hub 7) getting the bolt lined up with the thread portion of the hub takes some juggling again. Once I had the console bolt mostly in, I removed the trolley jack from under the inner console arm, and put it under the hub. I then used my scissor jack to help move the console arm as needed. In my case, I put a block of wood on the arch liner, then my scissor jack against the brake caliper and manipulated the arm enough to get the bolt in and threaded. 8.) I compressed the new strut a few times, then quickly posted it up in whole compressed and then bolted it in. 9) jack up to put everything under load then tighten up and bolts, bolt up new drop link etc! Comparing the KYB against the Kilen, the KYB was not only a good portion heavier, but also a little taller too. The pigtails appeared to stop in slightly different places too, which I always get wasn’t quite right with the KYB spring. To note, I replaced a stock spring without using my internal spring compressors in the end.. so it can be done! But please make sure you do what you’re comfortable with! All in all, once I had the correct spring - this really wasn’t too bad. Thanks for ALL the help and suggestions folks!