"As far as I remember she’s pretty much original so I’m guessing everything is worn but would welcome a steer on what to go at first."
The tone of this sentence led me to conclude you were in the dark over a newly acquired vehicle. Like so many cars, I assumed it was neglected.
This is why I included brake fluid/coolant and transmission fluid...as a subtle warning about their likely condition. I assumed those important fluids were 15 years old too.
I'm going to assume that your MOT man is on your side and is trying to save you unnecessary expense.
However, 15 years is a long time-longer with heavy cars like ours- and dampers age. I've seen 'em lose effectiveness with and without leaking.
Your harsh ride (no mention of banging or clunking) points to shocks / struts.
My '02 improved much after installing the rear shocks. New matching fronts added more solidity. One strut was leaking horribly and had some stiffness left and the other was bone dry and reacted like it was an empty tube...a complete zero.
I suppose someone will be along to suggest the foam in your seat cushion has flattened over the past 15 years too (ha-ha).
So even though the shocks & struts are serviceable I'd consider renewing them.
I'd use a heavier duty version if available. The Sachs SuperTourings I installed were said to be closest to stock which was fine.
However, heavier duty dampers on other vehicles added a brightness I think many would prefer.
Be wary about "quick-struts" (complete replacement units) because questions regarding component quality and resulting ride height (spring force) ALWAYS come up.
While any spring can break the era of bad Volvo springs is long over. I say this to discount the, "Volvos have bad springs so you're better off with quick-struts" argument.
Yes on examining the ball joints too.
It feels good to own a car for 10 years, doesn't it? Folks swap vehicles as they approach 90K miles for fear of, "losing trade-in value" only to wrestle with unfamiliar 2 to 4 year old cars.
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