Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve 940
Hi Dave,
Many thanks for your suggestions, my car is 1994 940 Estate 2.0 Turbo, B200Ft with AW auto 4 speed box with lockup.
I just don't want to blunder into pulling the tank pump unit, as whilst it's been years since I last spent time crawling around under cars, I just know Sod's law always seems to strike. The more I've read into the FAQ sections about the process and the main pump carrier/filter under the car, I'm wary of damaging a pipe etc.
Just to clarify, split harness connector in rear cubby hole, then positive lead from spare battery to pink wire in connector to pump, and negative lead from battery to grouand to pump to see if it runs? How loud is it, will it be obvious it's running if it works in the tank?
Ideally I'd like to get all the main parts I may need along with new seals, stainless hose clips, new tank securing ring etc.
Many thanks for your suggestions regarding sourcing.
Cheers
Steve
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https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...fuel+pump,6256
The Airtex E8186 should be the one you need Steve, Volvo usually have the sealing ring in stock and you won't have to crawl underneath to fit it either. Don't forget you'll need a new strainer for it (filter sock) but that should come up as an option to add to your basket if it's not already with the pump - i can't remember now.
Be careful when you power the in-tank pump from a spare battery, brown is the earth wire, pink is the +ve, the third one in the connector is for the sender - feeding that with +12V will likely result in lots of smoke and a permanently dead sender! Oh yeah, the heat might start the petrol burning too!
First step on removing the in-tank pump is to pull the rear headrests out, lift the rear seat bases and tip the rear seat backrests forwards. Now lift the carpeted flaps behind the seats to reveal 3 13mm nuts securing the floor covering - remove them and from the back, push the floor covering forwards to release it from its clips then remove the covering.
Now find the access panel, square ish secured with 4 screws with a 10mm head. Remove those and you will see the fuel pump/sender and the pipework/lock-ring.
After loosening the various hose clips, i used a length of wooden batten and a lump hammer to tap the lock ring round anti-clockwise to loosen it. Once loose/off, pull backwards slightly on the sender/pump flange to loosen it and lift slightly. Turn through 90 degrees and manoeuvre the pump/sender out of the tank, recovering the seal as you go.
You should be able to lift the pump/sender unit enough to lay it on the luggage area floor by now and swap the pumps over. Use some silicone grease on the new seal on both the inside (pump/sender) and outside (tank) to aid it slipping in nicely and then Haynes it - in other words reverse the procedure to get the pump/sender back in.
Smear some silicone grease either on the threads on the tank or the inside of the lock ring, refit it and use the wood and lump hammer to tap it tight. Reconnect the hoses (they're all different sizes so no mistakes can be made) and test by trying to start the car.
If all is good, refit the access plate with its 4 screws, engage the tongues on the underside of the floor panel and slide it backwards to get it in the correct place then lift the flaps on the front end of it and refit the 3 nuts. Put the back seats back how you normally have them and job done.
You will be able to hear the pump when feeding it with a slave battery, it's not loud but a low pitched hum/buzz.