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Old Jan 13th, 2022, 23:45   #8
Martin Cox
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Last Online: Today 14:18
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Hull
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Another vote for Simon. I've found his advice and videos invaluable.

There may be ways of reducing the cost or at least spreading it over a longer period.

Do as much of the work you can yourself. Remember there are many people on this forum who are very willing to give good advice and there may even be a few helpful souls who are prepared to offer practical help.

Just do the work that's necessary for the MoT. Anything else can be deferred: don't leave it too long though or a little job is apt to become a big one.

If you have a good relationship with your garage you may be able to split some of the work between you and them if appropriate. For example, I replaced the springs, spring seats and front dampers on my 1998 V70 but struggled to compress the springs safely to put it all back together. My local independant garage did that part for me for next to nothing, leaving me to refit the assembled struts.

With regard to the exhaust, it may be possible to patch it. If it's the mountings that have failed, aftermarket repair pieces may be available. I've used these on my 1998 V70 and my 2008 V70, both of which are still on the original factory fitted exhausts.

If the clutch is on it's way out you can probably baby it along for a bit but sooner or later you'll have to bite the bullet. It's certainly not a job I'd consider doing myself.

When changing brake fluid a pressure bleeding kit such as the Gunsons Eezibleed makes the job so much simpler. One problem can be seized nipples on the calipers. Many garages can't afford the time to free off a seized nipple and will opt for replacing the caliper. If you're doing the job yourself you can afford to spend the time freeing them off.

When changing the coolant use genuine Volvo coolant and unless you get a leak, you'll never have to do it again.

Good luck and let us know how you get on.

Martin
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