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I recently bought a simple tester for about a fiver on ebay, it's a simple go/no-go tester with half a dozen LEDs, first shows it's working, next few show from 0% to 5% in 1% stages of contamination (presumably water as that will alter the intrinsic resistance of the fluid) and by the time it's reading 5% the last two LEDs are red - red for danger and the "suggestion" in the instructions is that 2% or more, change the fluid!
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If you prefer, yet a standard multimeter does the same. Spend the money on fluid, and at two years do it anyway. Leave race-fluids or so called high-performance stuff out of it. They suck-up water so well they want doing in months, or ideally each race. For road-use they're worse. And when they're not doing that, going to neat acid, all that water boils. Ouch. Cheap is actually best.
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I've been told by reliable sources that common practice in a dealer service is to suck out the fluid from the reservoir and replace with fresh fluid, which indeed would be quick and cheap.
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Excuse my cynicism.... Told... told? Turkey-baster, 5 mins. and a bill. The public gets what the public wants. An hour's work, or five minutes? Well now, that's a hard one. Now, let me see...