Thread: 240 General: - New (to me) 1980 Volvo 244
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Old Apr 11th, 2021, 13:58   #2414
Othen
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Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
Sounds like a good plan Alan but i think you may be better off lifting the engine and box out as one unit. There's only one mount at the back of the box to support it while the engine is out and the only way to remove the box separately is from underneath. It's not easy and neither is replacement.

I would suggest the following method :

Remove the bonnet. Yes i know they can be set vertical for better access but that won't work with the next step. Also remove the radiator, slam panel (or as much of it as possible from the top of the rad) and grille.

Jack the rear of the car as high as you can safely get it on axle stands. Remove the prop shaft and unbolt the gearbox rear mount.

Leaving the back end up, disconnect electrics, fuel lines etc from the engine and remove the nuts from the engine mounts.

Sling the engine and box, if necessary using a load-leveller. Roll the hoist in and lift towards the back of the engine so the engine/box combo is as near parallel to the floor as possible.

Once clear of the mounts (and all other things perhaps forgotten) roll the hoist away from the front of the car, lifting the hoist as needed so the engine/box clears the front of the car.

Once the engine is out, it will be much easier to remove the sump, head, pistons, big ends, mains etc and when refitting, to use Plastigage to confirm the new shells are the right size and/or adjust the shells. The time saving involved in doing it this way will be more than the time saved by trying to do it in situ.

Refitting the box to the engine before refitting will also be much easier, getting the torque converter to engage in the oil pump drive in the box and turn the TC while aligning the bellhousing with the box laying on your chest isn't easy!
As always Dave, many thanks for the excellent advice.

The question wasn't really about how to take the engine, or engine and gearbox out... I have the space and tools to do the job here, and I could do it that way if I wanted to. The question is whether I want this to be a one day refresh, there being nothing much wrong with the RB, or whether I want to rebuild the motor.

I notice the BofH recommends removing the auto box from underneath first - because of its weight, but I have heard others (Luke for instance) recommend lifting the engine and gearbox out together; I'd be comfortable undertaking either with the set up I have here.

If I'm going to bother taking the motor out then I think this becomes a week long job (as I said to John above) where the rings, big ends, mains, gaskets and seals all get done - in which case perhaps I get Knight Engine Services to do a professional rebuild - but then the nature of the project changes a bit.

What I have to decide (and I have at least a year to do so) is whether to do a quick one-day refresh of standard size rings and big end shells when I service the RB next spring, or otherwise do I rebuild the engine... and if I do that do I re-paint the engine bay while the lump is out... and perhaps I fit the AW71L auto box... and maybe refurbish the PAS whilst access is good... and change the alternator... and have the carburettor ultra-sonically cleaned... and fit a tubular exhaust header... and where do I call a halt?

This is exactly the reason I have asked the question amongst this group of like-minded friends now, rather than not be clear about what I'm trying to achieve when the car is apart in a year's time.

If this was a bike (where most of my previous experience lies) - I'd think nothing of pulling off the head and barrels and swapping the rings as a sensible refresh. On a 2 stroke that would be a couple of hours work, on a 4 stroke it might take a day; both would be sensible things to do for a small effort. I'm now trying to work out whether in car terms a simple refresh like that as part of an annual service would be worthwhile. If the BofH is right and access to the big ends (and therefore the rings) is easy via the sump then that only looks like a day's work to me, and would bring about some useful benefits without the full 9 yards of an engine-out rebuild.

I'm really pleased I asked this question. At the moment I'm tending towards the one day/£100 option (access via the sump pan) rather than the one week/£1000 refurbishment. I've far from decided though - in fact Dan (my son, aged 16) and I have just talked through this very point (I'm so pleased he is taking an interest). My inclination is mainly due to my bike background where light refreshes of the top end would be common.

Many thanks :-)

Alan
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Last edited by Othen; Apr 11th, 2021 at 14:09. Reason: Spelling error.
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