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142 Guy · Jan 7th, 2022, 16:51

14.3 volts would have to be the voltage on the battery terminals with the engine running and that is not an indication of battery condition. It just means that your alternator / generator is working. A freshly charged battery at rest would probably be around 12.6 volts.

If your starter motor is turning slowly, you likely have one or more of the following:
- the battery has high internal resistance (it is getting old),
- you have problems with the electrical connections between the battery and the starter, or
- you have s problem with the solenoid / starter.

Do the battery terminal voltage check while cranking first, just because it is the easiest test. If the battery voltage is good then repeat the test, but measure the voltage at the large bolted terminal on the starter. The voltage should be just slightly less than the actual battery voltage. If it is a lot less, then you have a bad electrical connection someplace - which could include body ground connections. If the voltage test all come back as acceptable, then its time to examine the starter motor.

If you are going to the trouble of removing the starter motor, I suggest that the starter motor be the later Bosch SR 437X permanent magnet starter. It draws less current and spins the motor faster than the early SR 37X starter and is a drop in fit except for having to use different mounting bolts. Rock Auto has genuine Bosch SR 437X remans.

As a suggestion, you are bouncing around between problem areas like a ping pong ball. If you are looking for assistance, start on one potential area such as the starter motor and confirm or eliminate it as a source of the problem. If you can eliminate it as a source of the problem, then move on to the ignition system and confirm or eliminate it as the cause of the problem. If you eliminate the ignition as a problem then move on to the fuel system. This of course presumes that the engine is mechanically OK, i.e. that the valve clearances and valve timing is correct and that the compression is good.

In your first post, you made a comment about too much compression. How did you confirm that you have too much compression, or was that just idle speculation?

Jan 7th, 2022, 16:51	#6
142 Guy Master Member Last Online: Apr 27th, 2024 15:46 Join Date: Jul 2020 Location: Saskatchewan, Canada	14.3 volts would have to be the voltage on the battery terminals with the engine running and that is not an indication of battery condition. It just means that your alternator / generator is working. A freshly charged battery at rest would probably be around 12.6 volts. If your starter motor is turning slowly, you likely have one or more of the following: - the battery has high internal resistance (it is getting old), - you have problems with the electrical connections between the battery and the starter, or - you have s problem with the solenoid / starter. Do the battery terminal voltage check while cranking first, just because it is the easiest test. If the battery voltage is good then repeat the test, but measure the voltage at the large bolted terminal on the starter. The voltage should be just slightly less than the actual battery voltage. If it is a lot less, then you have a bad electrical connection someplace - which could include body ground connections. If the voltage test all come back as acceptable, then its time to examine the starter motor. If you are going to the trouble of removing the starter motor, I suggest that the starter motor be the later Bosch SR 437X permanent magnet starter. It draws less current and spins the motor faster than the early SR 37X starter and is a drop in fit except for having to use different mounting bolts. Rock Auto has genuine Bosch SR 437X remans. As a suggestion, you are bouncing around between problem areas like a ping pong ball. If you are looking for assistance, start on one potential area such as the starter motor and confirm or eliminate it as a source of the problem. If you can eliminate it as a source of the problem, then move on to the ignition system and confirm or eliminate it as the cause of the problem. If you eliminate the ignition as a problem then move on to the fuel system. This of course presumes that the engine is mechanically OK, i.e. that the valve clearances and valve timing is correct and that the compression is good. In your first post, you made a comment about too much compression. How did you confirm that you have too much compression, or was that just idle speculation? Last edited by 142 Guy; Jan 7th, 2022 at 17:02.