View Single Post
Old Aug 15th, 2021, 20:25   #5
Bob Meadows
Premier Member
 

Last Online: Today 19:13
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: STANDISH LANCASHIRE
Default How to make a 240 front arm rest:~

Further to the above:~
How to make the central arm rest.

1988 Volvo 240 GL:~
This armrest is for the above car but may suit other models.
All measurements are approximate and no welding of the fittings is required although you could do this if you wish- I would template the framework initially out of card as this should aid towards cutting out the metal parts avoiding wastage & mistakes.
Metal parts have been keyed-etched primed then painted satin black.
The two side arms are made from flat bar approximately 3.5-4mm thick the width is about 1 1/2” . Total length of each bar is 11Ύ" (this is inclusive of the Ύ” 90 degree bend that holds the top plate.
This plate is approx. 4” x 2 Ύ” (4mm)

The two side arms are drilled at the base and secured to the seat belt bolts- a few inches higher than the above is a couple of smaller bolts one each side of central console (these hold the same to the existing metal frame) utilise these two points as additional securing points stopping the arms moving forward or back, You should now have two side arms that should be approximately Ύ- 1inch above the plastic console top (no weight should be on the original plastic parts)

The top plate gets bolted to the arms (at the 90degree bend points) I used 3/16” size bolts with plain & spring washers (stainless)
When drilling the holes make sure you have side clearance for the hinge- again this is in stainless steel and bolted to the metal plate- the top opening flap is fastened to the arm rest with stainless self-tapping screws.
The hinge had been via eBay being a descent quality type (3” is fine)

The actual rest has a 1” deep hardwood timber base about 10” long x 5” wide and 3” deep.
The fabric is from a spare matching seat but you can choose whatever suits your car. The side fabric has a front & rear seam as pictured- the top piece is cut to shaped and sewn in etc. Adding a piping trim also helps with a neat finish.
Appropriately sized foam is used for the padding - once tacked or stapled into place a piece of carpet is glued to the underside of the rest covering the above.

When fitting the above to the plate/hinge you may find that the front of the rest is slightly low- made up a short “L” angle to raise into the level position- a small piece of panel edge trim can be fitted as shown to the top of this angle and this also cushions the rest, the angle is again held in place by two small fasteners.

The rest can be raised to access the trinket box- use of the seat belts remain as normal but the rest can be lifted up slightly if required, make sure that the rest isn’t too long or you may find it awkward to reach the hand brake etc.
This makes a descent replacement for the now quite rare original.
Hope you find it useful.
Regards Bob.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20210811_192603 (1).jpg (135.5 KB, 20 views)
File Type: jpg Rest 4.jpg (135.2 KB, 17 views)
File Type: jpg rest 5.jpg (117.8 KB, 21 views)
Bob Meadows is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Bob Meadows For This Useful Post: