Volvo Owners Club Forum - View Single Post - D5 Euro 4 - EGR Clean and Swirl Flaps Rod snapped

sv70 · Jan 27th, 2022, 23:32

Firstly if its just the swirl flap rod or the knuckle on the swirl flap arm that's worn and so long as the arm is actually moving the flaps-[as it is possible that the arm has broken so you see it moving but it isn't actually moving the swirl flaps, as i had on one car] there are plenty of easy fixes posted on here to just fix a broken or worn arm. If however you want to replace the swirl flaps with new then that's a more involved job and parts will be-swirl arm flap kit-around £85 [i got one from[ parts for volvo-PFS]-which you get the swirl flaps and the inlet manifold/cam cover rubber gasket-[around £25 if you buy it separate] and the injector copper washers. Then you have to remove the injectors, this can be easy if you are lucky, if not can be a task due to them being stuck- so special removal tool required, once injectors are out it's straightforward, but some people say you will need new injector clamp brackets to keep correct tension on the injectors and others say just put some bend in the existing ones to compensate, and some also say you need to replace the high pressure metal pipes going to the injectors, but some say they have re-used them without problem- i have done both methods on different cars and have got away with re-using the pipes and injector clamps without problems, but this is for you to decide, Oh i just forgot to say- if you do decide to change the swirl flap kit you will have at least one day of cleaning out the inlet/exhaust ports on the cylinder head because they will be clogged up, as well as the plastic inlet manifold/camcover, because that will be the same, as well as cleaning the egr valve body and associated hoses-all this is a very dirty job and tricky as when you are scraping all the gunge from the ports without getting any of that stuff falling into the engine, i put temporary cloth bungs in so any carbon deposits don't go down there-[have a vac and petrol type hose at the ready to suck it out]and a can of carb cleaner-and don't forget to prime the high pressure fuel pump in the engine bay or you will be turning the engine over for ages with no result[ask me how i know] and finally hope you haven't all fell asleep reading this.

Jan 27th, 2022, 23:32	#2
sv70 Member Last Online: Apr 1st, 2024 22:31 Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: oldham	Firstly if its just the swirl flap rod or the knuckle on the swirl flap arm that's worn and so long as the arm is actually moving the flaps-[as it is possible that the arm has broken so you see it moving but it isn't actually moving the swirl flaps, as i had on one car] there are plenty of easy fixes posted on here to just fix a broken or worn arm. If however you want to replace the swirl flaps with new then that's a more involved job and parts will be-swirl arm flap kit-around £85 [i got one from[ parts for volvo-PFS]-which you get the swirl flaps and the inlet manifold/cam cover rubber gasket-[around £25 if you buy it separate] and the injector copper washers. Then you have to remove the injectors, this can be easy if you are lucky, if not can be a task due to them being stuck- so special removal tool required, once injectors are out it's straightforward, but some people say you will need new injector clamp brackets to keep correct tension on the injectors and others say just put some bend in the existing ones to compensate, and some also say you need to replace the high pressure metal pipes going to the injectors, but some say they have re-used them without problem- i have done both methods on different cars and have got away with re-using the pipes and injector clamps without problems, but this is for you to decide, Oh i just forgot to say- if you do decide to change the swirl flap kit you will have at least one day of cleaning out the inlet/exhaust ports on the cylinder head because they will be clogged up, as well as the plastic inlet manifold/camcover, because that will be the same, as well as cleaning the egr valve body and associated hoses-all this is a very dirty job and tricky as when you are scraping all the gunge from the ports without getting any of that stuff falling into the engine, i put temporary cloth bungs in so any carbon deposits don't go down there-[have a vac and petrol type hose at the ready to suck it out]and a can of carb cleaner-and don't forget to prime the high pressure fuel pump in the engine bay or you will be turning the engine over for ages with no result[ask me how i know] and finally hope you haven't all fell asleep reading this.