Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve 940
Once again Dave, I’m in awe of your detailed knowledge, very very much appreciated.
The more I’ve looked into this, and as you say, with Volvo changing specs so often doesn’t help, feels like I’ve gone down a proverbial rabbit hole😀
Interesting the companies are now one and the same, progress eh….
I shall take your advice, and after further chin scratching, think I’ve formulated a plan. First off with multimeter in hand I can hopefully identify from the cars harness, permanent live, switched live using key to test, illumination ?? Hopefully a harness pin will give some volts when switching on lights, although mine has daylight running lights? Don’t think it will make much difference???
I have normal aerial in back side window, body colour plug in top of D pillar blanking for a power aerial , I have 4 new door speakers behind factory grilles, and was going to leave the dash tweeters not connected.
However, in the owners manual I found today the dash speakers are wired to the front door speakers, if they work then that’s fine, if not, then I wasn’t expecting to use them, so no biggie.
Just then need to verify the speaker locations in the harness, a couple of sites have given a seemingly standardised speaker location colour codes, looks a good starting point but ideally I want to verify before I plug it all back into the dash.
Is it safe, i.e. not blow my nice new speakers, to do a normal home hi fi battery ‘pop’ test by connecting a 1.5v or 9v battery to each speaker cable in the harness?? This should give corresponding pop from the speaker connected to each pair of wires.
Alternative I suppose is rigging up some sort of test lamp, or can I use multimeter to verify that the cables I think are FR are actually FR, bit of a distance to reach rear door speaker connectors.
Head unit supplied with 2 ISO plugs all nicely labelled, one for power etc and other for speakers, these have no terminals or anything, just ready for crimping etc. Ideally I would like to get just the required 10 and 14 pin connector blocks that will fit directly into the harness, with a bag of terminals so I can crimp and solder terminals and then insert into the connectors to give correct pin connections.
Anyone know where or if I can source bare 10 and 14 pin female connecting blocks that will plug directly into the car harness? Or even what these blocks in the photo enclosed are called ?? Then I can put terminal pins on the ends of my supplied ISO leads, then push the wired pins into the bare blocks, essentially building my own harness to plug directly into these in the car.
Cheers
Steve
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At the risk of sounding critical Steve - you're over-thinking this. I am saying this because i was guilty of doing the same but didn't have an option with my 760 as the pervious owner had butchered the original wiring so i didn't have the plugs to plug an Autoleads patch lead in.
Like i said further up, as long as in key position 1 (accessories, NO ignition) the only +12V you have is on the red and orange wires, you're good to go. The illumination input may not even be connected in your head unit, the speaker outputs are standard (International Standards Organisation, Deutsche Industrie Nummer = ISO-DIN) with the exception of some GM and VAG cars (also some but not all Mercs) where the red and orange are swapped to prevent owners retro fitting replacement head units that are non manufacturer branded.
You will likely only get a feed on the illumination with the sidelights and ignition on, normally it's not connected to the DRL circuit which all Volvos had since the early 70s.
The head unit will have speaker protection built in, i wouldn't advise using a PP3 battery and certainly not +12V from the car battery to check for a "click" from the speakers as you could easily burn out the voice coils.
I would plug in your Connects2 patch lead and see what you've got. If you want, check you have +12V on the orange wire without turning the key, check the red wire gains +12V when turned to position 1 on the key (accessories) then switch the key off and plug your head unit in including speakers connection then test. Should be good to go.
