Quote:
Originally Posted by Bugjam1999
When I swapped the fluid on my power steering first I jacked up the front of the car and supported it on axle stands with the front wheels free, then I removed the PAS return line and put that into a white washing up bowl from Poundland under the car (I extended it with a suitable piece of hose) - the bowl needs to be white to see the fluid colour.
Then I got a willing volunteer to start the car and spin the steering wheel lock to lock, whilst pouring new fluid into the PAS reservoir (it goes down fairly quickly, but not unmanageable with a funnel in the reservoir and bottles of fluid open and waiting) When the fluid running out into the washing up bowl was no longer dirty I got the volunteer to stop the car, reconnected the return line, topped the fluid up to the correct level, started the car and spun the wheel lock to lock a couple more times, checked the level again and put the kettle on.
Cheers
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That's a bit of a harsh method! It gives the rack seals no time to recover between the old thin fluid going and the new, thick fluid (which will give higher pressures) coming in. That's why i'd always go for the syringe method and do part-changes, that way the new fluid has a chance to recondition the seals before full pressure from the new fluid happens. It's more gradual and also works out cheaper on fluid in the long run.