Volvo Owners Club Forum - View Single Post - Engine: T5:

Verracciii · Apr 11th, 2024, 22:52

Hey,

So I have solved my little aircon pressure problem. It was indeed the PCV banjo bolt. I have a 2001 2.0L petrol S60 and the bolt didn't even have a year marking on it, all I know is that it did not have a boost valve inside at all, it was just hollow. I replaced it with a 2020 bolt (the new one was slightly longer, which caused me a headache.)

I managed it all WITHOUT removing the alternator. I removed the top coolant hose, loosened the turbo air intake and removed the dipstick holder. Because I have slim hands, I could fit them between the alternator and intake manifold and undo the bolt (this was after I had broken it loose with a filed down 17mm so it fits in the spot). However, because the new bolt was longer, it kept being prevented by the alternator's plastic backing from going straight into the hole. I filed down this plastic backing and the rib on it, giving me enough room. I controversially reused the copper crush washers as the OEM ones I ordered were too big. If you have some time and more mechanical proficiency than I do, then I would highly recommend loosening the alternator, however, if you feel like it, you can go through with my method (a mirror on a stick is extremely useful).

Now my car (which may be a placebo) runs a lot better. It also has better negative pressure in the crankcase, compared to what it was before. If anyone has any questions please ask, keep in mind (as you have seen above) that I am no professional.

Apr 11th, 2024, 22:52	#8
Verracciii New Member Last Online: Yesterday 15:38 Join Date: Feb 2024 Location: Thetford	Solved! Hey, So I have solved my little aircon pressure problem. It was indeed the PCV banjo bolt. I have a 2001 2.0L petrol S60 and the bolt didn't even have a year marking on it, all I know is that it did not have a boost valve inside at all, it was just hollow. I replaced it with a 2020 bolt (the new one was slightly longer, which caused me a headache.) I managed it all WITHOUT removing the alternator. I removed the top coolant hose, loosened the turbo air intake and removed the dipstick holder. Because I have slim hands, I could fit them between the alternator and intake manifold and undo the bolt (this was after I had broken it loose with a filed down 17mm so it fits in the spot). However, because the new bolt was longer, it kept being prevented by the alternator's plastic backing from going straight into the hole. I filed down this plastic backing and the rib on it, giving me enough room. I controversially reused the copper crush washers as the OEM ones I ordered were too big. If you have some time and more mechanical proficiency than I do, then I would highly recommend loosening the alternator, however, if you feel like it, you can go through with my method (a mirror on a stick is extremely useful). Now my car (which may be a placebo) runs a lot better. It also has better negative pressure in the crankcase, compared to what it was before. If anyone has any questions please ask, keep in mind (as you have seen above) that I am no professional.