Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve 940
Hi Dave!
Many thanks for pointers, when I bought it some 8 months ago it was supposed to be 'serviced', so I had assumed perhaps incorrectly, that plugs would have been changed. Part of the deal was timing belt change and front seals as there was a leak on the timing cover, and they did supply invoice from Brookhouse for those parts. Of course if new plugs were fitted, no guarantee they gapped them correctly.
As you know I had been baulkng at doing my in tank pump, and had done the 'sniff test' on the small hose on the fuel regulator, could not smell any sign of petrol. Although that was with engine switched off, will do the test again with it running.
As you've probably gathered I'm a bit slow getting upto speed on this spanner wielding, the last plugs I changed must have been 30+ years ago, do I go airline to blast dust etc. from the recess before taking old ones out, copper grease (circa 1980's) sparingly applied on new plug threads?? Obviously taking care of not to cross thread.
HT leads are marked Bougicord, so I think these probably are original, or not??
Cheers
Steve
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Many garages view an oil/filter change as a "full service" Steve so worth your time going over everything that should have been done and checking it.
Probably no real need on a red block to get the airline out and blow the plugs off before removal unless there is obvious debris around them - would be unusual though.
As for a smear of copper grease on the threads, yes, spot on. It's possible they used Champion plugs in it, if so just replace with NGK plugs and that will probably fix the problem. It's also possible they didn't even bother looking at the plugs too!
Bougicord were OE kit and the recommended replacement as they have a long service life and do the job very well. They can be obtained from PFV but are listed as "Bosch or Bougicord" and i believe you have to specify you want Bougicord.
https://www.partsforvolvosonline.com/
One thing you will need when you replace the plugs is a short length of rubber hose, either 1/4"/6mm bore or 3/8"/10mm bore. Fit the length of hose onto the plug lead end of the plug and use it to screw the plug in - if the plug cross-threads the hose will slip and the plug can be removed and refitted correctly - #4 plug is particularly tricky as it is a backwards and up angle - you'll understand that description on #4 plug when you get to it. Plugs #1-#3 are relatively easy to get to but the hose method of fitting is still recommended.
The smaller bore hose fits the nipple on the end of the plug that the plug lead connects to electrically, the larger bore hose fits the ceramic insulator so either can be used.
If memory serves the spec in the HBoF (Haynes Book of Fantasy) says 0.7-0.8mm plug gap, however that would have been written when V-groove plugs weren't common, setting them to 0.65-0.7mm takes the V-groove into account and also allows for some peoples techniques with feeler gauges being looser than others.
The test on the FPR needs to be done running or the fuel pump won't be supplying pressure to the FPR and the diaphragm inside it so a pinhole won't give the tell-tale dribble of petrol. Worth noting that the FPR springs can go weak and cause the same problem, usually when it does it causes a slight hunt at idle, particularly when using the "creep" of the auto for parking.
There may be other causes of the hesitancy while cruising but let's go for the simple stuff first!
