Quote:
Originally Posted by Laird Scooby
I'd replace the 'stat before going near the HCV if i were you. Before you start the drain, flush etc, ensure the heater is set to the hottest setting, it needs to be there so the matrix gets flushed too.
When you come to do it, invest in something like Comma X-stream Flush for the cooling system and add it as per the directions on it.
If it says run it at a fast idle for 20 minutes, take it for a half hour drive instead.
Once you're home and it has cooled somewhat, remove the 'stat housing and the old 'stat. Refit the housing then remove the top hose from the radiator stub. Use your garden hose in the open end of the top hose, if you have a Hozelock type fitting it should fit snugly inside the top hose.
Turn the water on for the hose and leave it running. This reverse flushes the system with the old stuff exiting via the radiator stub at the top. Usually takes about half hour to get it running clear, once it is running clear leave it 10 minutes or so more to ensure it really is clear.
Turn the hose off and remove it from the top hose. Remove the bottom hose from the bottom of the rad to drain off excess water from the rad and block and then refit - having a new Jublee clip for it is a wise move as they often rust.
|
Maybe silly question - after my drive with the coolant flush mixed with deionised water in the cooling system (following an initial coolant drain, do I need to drain the coolant flush/water mixture before flushing through with a garden hose, or should I just go for it?
How poisonous is that coolant flush to wandering cats/others - just bearing in mind that ethylene glycol is notorious for causing irreversable kidney damage to cats (and we have two of the creatures at home)? Or is it the case that the 30-40 minutes of hose flushing will render the poison concentration sufficiently diluted that I'm worrying about nothing?
Finally, how do you get rid of used ethylene glycol coolant - take it to the tip and pour it in the waste engine oil tank?