Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyS9
Has anyone asked what engine/car we are dealing with here?
Stalling problem - does it happen only after acceleration?
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From memory from another thread, it's a B230F (FB?) but it doesn't matter now, it's fixed :
Quote:
Originally Posted by Exasperant
So, the car totally died going round a slow corner a few days ago.
Pos clamp on the battery was sort of snug, but a couple of wires coming off it weren't.
So far, since tightening things up, no more ABS, no more crow.
Also noticed no battery clamp fitted.
I know - I KNOW - you mustn't ever expect a used car to be perfect, but seriously, a flappy around barely hooked up battery!?
Best guess, the battery/ wiring moving under braking, exacerbated by the warped brake disc making everything shake, was causing an electrical dropout that coupled to the box/ torque convertor basically going freewheel at lost speeds led to stalling.
Of course, the problem could come back, but 100 miles and counting without any signs of it.
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Just one little point here, might be misinterpeting what you're saying but there's normally no electrical connection to the lock-up clutch within the torque converter, mechanical only and only above 45mph if memory serves.
If the engine is turning, so is the torque converter (TC), if the TC is turning, so is the gearbox input shaft and the hydraulic pump within the gearbox. However at low speed, there's not enough speed on the output shaft to keep the momentum of the engine going.
It's why you should never tow an auto! Certainly can't tow/bump start them!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Laird Scooby
Glad you've found the problem and fixed it! Yes, that will cause those sort of problems but it shouldn't have passed an MoT with an insecure battery. That said, because the battery sits in a well and can't really go anywhere they tend to overlook it on the 7/9xx cars, if in fact they can actually see the clamp is missing.
The big problem there was the loose terminal/leads from it though.
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It could also be the battery clamp was removed after the MoT perhaps to keep a better battery than the one in the car which should be an 027 or if it's the heavy duty, 096 but you will need a normal lead-acid only battery, not a "Calcium/Silver-Calcium" type as they're unlikely to charge properly.