Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris152
Yes, I'd seen about that somewhere in my reading (dirty fluid problems). And yes, I'd been wondering about a fluid change, I'd place money on its not having been changed in a long time. I'll invest in a 7mm spanner before we start on that! Some Sunday reading for me... :-)
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You can check the brake fluid easily and cheaply with one of these Chris :
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114396159192
My Volvo fluid is showing 1-2% contamination (it's about 3-4 years old) and the Rover is off the scale because it's about 10-11 years old!
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274806861788
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130759082496
Two links to the Eezibleed kit there, first is a new/never used one previously bought by someone else on an auction listing. If you'd prefer to buy new with a guarantee and all the bits provided (always a chance the purchaser of the new/never used one has lost some of the bits) then i'd suggest the second one. You'll almost certainly have the standard Girling screw cap on your brake fluid reservoir and a cap is supplied with that fitting.
Using the Eezibleed is simplicity itself, pump your spare tyre up to at least 20psi (i use 30-35psi to overcome the ABS valves which take a fair bit of pressure), fill the bottle with new brake fluid, attach the cap to the reservoir, open the bleed nipple (with a length of tubing to direct it into a container) on the first in the bleeding sequence and connect the air connector to the spare tyre. When clean fluid comes through, close the nipple and remove the connector from the tyre. Repeat for the second, third etc nipples in the bleed sequence.
This is quite a good video showing the Eezibleed in action, a bit waffley in places but all useful stuff for the most part. It's also centred on an MGB which may seem a strange choice but the master cylinder cap is similar (maybe the same) and he's fairly thorough in his descriptions. If you forget it's an MGB and transpose your thinking to Volvo, it should be very helpful :
https://youtu.be/0UFqJFathco
In practice you can leave the tyre connected all the time but try to minimise the time it's connected without having a bleed valve open. Also keep an eye on the fluid level in the bottle and don't forget to disconnect the tyre before topping up!
I'm not sure of the bleeding sequence on yours and it will vary between ABS and non-ABS cars, using a clear tube from the bleed nipple to the receptacle will let you see when the fresh fluid comes through.