Warmer at the top and cooler at the bottom is the way it should be. If there are tubes that are plugged I would expect them to be quite noticeable with a temperature sensor or IR camera.
The shroud mounted around a puller fan will help distribute air flow over more of the radiator surface (those corners) which will help improve cooling when the car is stationary / moving slowly. Whether it will help enough is an unknown. Given the work associated with trying to fabricate and securely mount a shroud, I personally would be inclined to add an electric pusher fan because I expect that a pusher fan installation will be less effort than a sanitary shroud installation. I picked up a mungo sized pusher fan for my 140, the largest that I could fit in the cowl area in front of the rad from Speedway Motors for less than $80 (granted that was about 7 years ago) and I run without the OEM fan. I have an aftermarket coolant temperature gauge with no dead band and you can see the coolant temperature start dropping approximately 1 minute after you hear the fan start up.
That said, if you are still using a generator a big electric fan may not be the hot ticket (no pun intended). My pusher draws about 10 amps. The original 35 amp Bosch alternator on the 140 retrofitted with a solid state voltage regulator will keep the alternator output above 14 volts at idle when the fan switches on. A generator may struggle to maintain voltage at idle with a large electric fan.
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