Volvo Owners Club Forum - View Single Post - S80: Engine

Thassos · Jan 24th, 2024, 09:38

Morning,, i had missed your drawing in post #5 (so much for speed reading!), would the pierburg part be item 12? and the vaccum actuator the round component below the turbo? with no number?

Some questions & things to try..

A) you mention applying 12v (would suggest using a DVM to probe the 2 wires going to the pierburg 'solenoid' to see what polarity they are before applying 12v in same polarity. If you blow on the port when 12v applied, does it pass thru or close flow of air?

B) Well worth getting a cheap chinese version of a mityvac, or maybe use a large syringe with tube and attach to the capsule to see if you can make the turbo actuator move with vaccum applied, sometimes you can freely move the arm or linkage with no tube attached, or get an idea of what resistance there is to moving the linkage incase its something internal to the turbo.

C) You might also use the 'mityvac' attached in place of the capsule to see if any vaccum is getting applied via the 'solenoid' similarly with engine running, (again just ideas here..) Also see if the tubing run back from the capsule will hold a vaccum - incase of a split or poor / missing tube connection.

Usually on pwm type connections one side is permanently (chassis, or +12v feed) and the other is switched on-off on a regular time loop that is giving the %age from fully open to fully closed. No idea if this applies here but with 2 wires to something there are only a limited number of ways it can work ! the signal will be coming from the ECU from one or both sides, might also be worth using a dvm to trace the wiring back to the ecu plug (just use a small bit of small guage wire to 'probe' the connector without pushing something oversize in it that might cause damage,..) incase its a broken electrical connection (prob less likely).

If you have a DVM, but not all will have this function, you need one that can show frequency or something like (may have PWM in its setting), you could attach this across the actuator (ie with it all plugged in), only easy way is with sharp probes, a bit of info below might be useful

https://www.fluke.com/en-gb/learn/bl...ure-duty-cycle

You mention your engine is a T3? so is it a single turbo not twin? some info from wiki, below (cant believe how many versions there have been...)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volvo_D5_engine

Jan 24th, 2024, 09:38	#10
Thassos GoldMember Last Online: May 23rd, 2024 22:03 Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Kent, UK	edd chinavac Morning,, i had missed your drawing in post #5 (so much for speed reading!), would the pierburg part be item 12? and the vaccum actuator the round component below the turbo? with no number? Some questions & things to try.. A) you mention applying 12v (would suggest using a DVM to probe the 2 wires going to the pierburg 'solenoid' to see what polarity they are before applying 12v in same polarity. If you blow on the port when 12v applied, does it pass thru or close flow of air? B) Well worth getting a cheap chinese version of a mityvac, or maybe use a large syringe with tube and attach to the capsule to see if you can make the turbo actuator move with vaccum applied, sometimes you can freely move the arm or linkage with no tube attached, or get an idea of what resistance there is to moving the linkage incase its something internal to the turbo. C) You might also use the 'mityvac' attached in place of the capsule to see if any vaccum is getting applied via the 'solenoid' similarly with engine running, (again just ideas here..) Also see if the tubing run back from the capsule will hold a vaccum - incase of a split or poor / missing tube connection. Usually on pwm type connections one side is permanently (chassis, or +12v feed) and the other is switched on-off on a regular time loop that is giving the %age from fully open to fully closed. No idea if this applies here but with 2 wires to something there are only a limited number of ways it can work ! the signal will be coming from the ECU from one or both sides, might also be worth using a dvm to trace the wiring back to the ecu plug (just use a small bit of small guage wire to 'probe' the connector without pushing something oversize in it that might cause damage,..) incase its a broken electrical connection (prob less likely). If you have a DVM, but not all will have this function, you need one that can show frequency or something like (may have PWM in its setting), you could attach this across the actuator (ie with it all plugged in), only easy way is with sharp probes, a bit of info below might be useful https://www.fluke.com/en-gb/learn/bl...ure-duty-cycle You mention your engine is a T3? so is it a single turbo not twin? some info from wiki, below (cant believe how many versions there have been...) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volvo_D5_engine Last edited by Thassos; Jan 24th, 2024 at 09:53.