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Originally Posted by Othen
If you bought the motor car fairly cheaply and it runs okay now I'd probably suggest just screwing it back together with a new tensioner, adjusted valve shims, new hushers and and then just keeping an eye on it (that is probably what I would do).
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A well considered post Alan, sorry I've snipped it right down...
I gave £1800 for it. I've been watching the 'seriously?' thread for a good 18 months now and surmised I wanted to pay under £2k for a usable vehicle that was structurally sound and with at least some provenance.
This comes with provenance galore, was definitely usable at the time money changed hands and has no structural rust. (the inner lip of the rear arches has some that currently you can only see with your head inside the arch and which I will attempt to stop in its tracks this summer) The interior is really tidy aside from a heat crack to the dashtop.
The cost of the two things I wanted to do straight away - belt and a backbox plus a service I guesstimated reasonably well would stay under the £2k limit, although the backboxes seem unreasonably expensive compared to the mid sections.
Thats £500 less than the previous owner paid, and considerably less than the £4k asked for in 2019. I don't know what it actually sold for that time.
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If it were bottom end issues, I don't think I would bother with that work on a 2litre, I'd rather keep driving it, find a 2.3 and fully rebuild that at a relaxed pace under the cover of my shed. Many years ago with a friend I have rebuilt a vintage tractor engine and a 480 turbo engine in the past, and would quite like to do another.
Of course that would mean the car wouldn't be 'original' any more, so more consideration required.
It is only a GL - a 'cooking' variant, so it will never attract top dollar, not that I bought it to make money on anyway, I want it to use it, keep it in good order and tinker in between.
If the existing engine keeps going as-is, fine, I don't actually drive that fast these days anyway!
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Literally no-body I have spoken to has said 'ooh I'd take the head off with those numbers', in fact more have said 'wouldn't worry about it' so on that basis I'm going to take the balance of the (collective) wisdom and do as you state above.
If I wasn't going to listen to advice, I wouldn't have asked for it!
I need to get the valve shim remover tool and to measure the existing ones to order the ones I need (from experience I may be able to swap them around a bit to minimise the number that need doing) and then do the full service - I also have a litre and a half of brake fluid that I only opened on Saturday that I may as well use to flush right through with, since that is a job so often neglected by garages and owners alike.
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Originally Posted by baggy798
being a 2.0 auto you won't notice any performance difference with a couple of the cylinders being 25 psi down.😝
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Haha yes it is a bit slow, but it is at least a pre-catalyst model - those were utterly strangled!
The autobox was a choice so my wife can drive it on occasion if I go off in the estate, and the 2litre was a compromise because the car ticked all the other boxes - solid and has good provenance.
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Originally Posted by baggy798
I'm surprised someone hasn't suggested putting a gallon of ATF in the oil.😂
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To quiet it down or as a flush?
I've flushed them with diesel before, and a friend of mine used to be the mobile plant supervisor at a local quarry, all of their cars got a flush with a gallon of CAT hydraulic oil, engines were literally spotless inside afterwards!
The inside of the rocker is pretty clean, so I'm just going to put some fresh 10w-40 in it
