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Old Nov 2nd, 2021, 16:43   #13
Challo
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Last Online: May 26th, 2024 22:12
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Reading
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
Just an idea Chris, see if the seller will sell you a short sample section, just long enough to cover where your seal is shot then as a test, replace just that section. If it works, buy the length you need for the entire door frame (probably about 3m at a guess, i've not measured it) and you have a "spare" section to use to test the same on other doors then too.

Even if you have to buy a 1m length to prove whether it will work, it's still cheaper than buying the full length you need and then finding it's not suitable.

I used their Cortina Mk3/4/5 boot seal on the boots of my Rover Coupe and saloon as it was near identical to the original and very pleased i was with it as well. In that application is does provide waterproofing so i could tell things had improved as i once more had a dry boot - always useful!

The original seal was a continuous section, i.e. joined in the middle so when i fitted the new stuff, i made sure the ends were square cut and the seal was a smidge too long then used superglue to make the exact join like the original. Probably overkill and picky/nerdish but as far as i was concerned, made that vital little bit of difference. No idea if the Volvo door seals are also continuous but if so, handy to know it's easy to join one end to the other.
Good idea Dave. Its only on the top corner where the door meet the B pillar. From what I can see its just perished enough to have a whistling noise and draft coming through.

I'll order 1 piece and see if a short term patch works. If yes then i can replace the whole piece at a later date.
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