Quote:
Originally Posted by TomSaintJames
Glad you said that Dave, I had forgotten and not made a note of which cam you recommended! Thankfully the penta does have a V cam and to my untrained eye appears to have the head distributor drive.
Also Dave, IIRC you mentioned that with LH2.4 I would have to use the head mounted distributor. If you don't mind explaining, what is the reasoning for that? I got 3 nuts off in total and broke a ratchet and my 3/8" drive 12" breaker bar trying to undo the other lug nuts on Saturday - so I threw in the towell!
So yesterday Luke, aka 360 beast, came over for Stage 1 of the turbo LH2.4 project, the aim was to remove the engine and gearbox and swap the axles for one with a better ratio (Dave - this one was from a 1997 car IIRC).
To allow this when parked, it'd be great to run the compressor without the engine running - so having the compressor powered by an electric motor would be great, situating this where the N/A airbox currently is may work, depending on space etc (I haven't measured or designed anything yet). Let me know your thoughts on this, if you have any!
Cheers,
Tom |
Certainly looks like the cam has the distributor drive. Without getting into too many details, the LH2.4 uses the signal from the bellhousing mounted Crank Position Sensor to fire not only the ignition but the injection as well. As such, you need the head mounted dizzy and so on.
You're in for a shock when you first drive the car - at 30mph, your speedo will be showing 120mph!
As you haven't got ABS, the reluctor ring in the diff of your old axle will have 12 teeth, the axle that's just gone in has 48 teeth. Therefore each turn gives 48 pulses, not 12 so it will read 4 times the speed it's really doing!
To drive the A/C compressor using an electric motor would need a lot of power, the sort of power likely to drain a fully charged, large battery in about an hour tops.
Given that the only thing you'll really be doing without any of the doors open for access will be sleeping, i'd suggest a more basic approach. A set of window deflectors and leave the windows open by about an inch overnight will reduce the heat in summer and give enough draught-free ventilation. You could also tint the windows from the B post back with something like :
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Light-gre...f/283522388265
This will help keep the UV and IR out so reducing the temperature in the back through the day (when it warms up) and as long as you don't have lights on inside, will enhance your privacy at night time. I'd still advise curtains though.
If you really need more ventilation at night, i'd suggest a couple of 12V fans on a separate leasure battery with a split-charge system. This battery could also provide power for lighting, charging phones, 12V mini-fridge etc.