[canis]

I get asked this a lot. "Is it a good car?" they ask.

There is no such thing as a 'good' or 'bad' car. What there is are cars which either have, or have not, been maintained. In that regard, buying a car is always something of a gamble, but there are one or two checks you can make.

By far the biggest criteria is: Do you like it? I mean the colour, the interior, etc. It might sound like a girlie question, but if you don't like it, don't buy it. It doesn't matter how practical, economical, reliable it is, if it's an insipid beige or a lurid green you'll hate it and it'll bug you. It should make you feel good. Wear it.

Ask to see the V5 (Vehicle Registration Document, a.k.a. "The log book"), check the numberplates match, and examine the chassis plate on the front bulkhead under the bonnet. Nearby should be the same number, stamped physically into the metal. Also on the dashboard visible through the windscreen. The V5 is proof of ownership, so it's important it's the exact one for the car.

Look for leaks, staining on the headlining. Examine the spare wheel well, it should be dry with no water sloshing around. It should also have a street-legal wheel and tyre (inflated), a rudimentary jack and wheel-changing tools. Feel around the upholstery, particularly carpets, particularly near wheel arches and sills, it should all be dry. If it's heavy with condensation - walk away, it'll drive you nuts.

Examine the engine bay. Obvious oil leaks will need repair, it's not the end of the world but it's something to be bourne in mind. If the battery has a 'magic-eye', it should be green. Open the oil cap, it should be clean and oily. Black is good, deep brown is good, pale brown is suspicious and white/yellow - walk away. Pull the dipstick before starting, check the level, again observe the colour. Any hint of mayonaise, walk away.

Open the coolant bottle, there should be no sign of oil at all. A little rust staining is normal, but if it's tomato soup then it's a mark against it. Again, not the end of the world, but bear it in mind.

Turn the ignition on but do not start the engine. Watch the lamps in the instrument cluster, particularly oil and battery, both should light. If they don't, walk away. ABS lights, etc. should all light and then extinguish with exception of the brakes, which won't extinguish until you press it. Press the brake, it should be very firm.

Start the engine with the brake pedal pushed, it should drop but not to the floor, just normal. A few seconds of engine rattle is normal, but if it continues, walk away. If it makes a squeeling noise on startup (belt slippage) the engine will need servicing. Notice the idle speed, it should be around 1200-ish gradually falling to around 700-ish as it warms. While this is going on, you can check all the ancilliaries.

Wipers, lights, washers, heater, windows, seat adjustment, seat belts, all that stuff. Press the clutch and release a few times, it shouldn't alter it's sound at all. If it rattles faintly until pressed, that'll need work in the future at some point. And it's not cheap, but can last thousands of miles, so it's a point against but not terminal. During these checks, turn the wheel all the way to one side - a straining sound at full lock is normal and should stop when you release the wheel. Apply the same test in the opposite direction.

When driving, gears should be selectable easily, and the clutch should not judder, squeel or slip. The car should keep a straight line and not wander, nor pull to either side. The steering wheel should be upright when travelling forwards in a straight line. When it is safe to test the brakes, do so. Don't be gentle - perform an emergency stop. The ABS should deploy and the car should maintain a straight line. If it twists or skids, knock a couple of hundred off the price.

With the engine at normal temperature, select a gear which is normally too high (i.e. 3rd at 5mph) and give it full throttle - any pinking, walk away. Any rattling under accelleration is bad news.

Return to the sales place, park and select neutral. Run the engine up to 4000rpm, if it rattles at high revs but not at tick over, walk away. Run, actually.

Finally, with the engine still running, open the bonnet. The top of the radiator sgould be hot, let it run until the fan starts. At this point, stop the engine. It should stop gracefully with no "running on".

That's all I can think of. Good luck.