Quote:
Originally Posted by foeism
I take it this cam/aux belt change would be the same for any engine?
|
It's a great guide, BUT it's only for the V40 1.9D. The Haynes book of "Porkie pies", will cover petrol V40 engines.
If any keen Vadis or other software owner wants to add to this guide, it is missing two sections, use of a suitable locking tool to ensure the cam shaft does not move when the belt is changed and a section on changing the water pump.
The original OEM water pump (Might well NOT be the same standard as the current Volvo part) lasts a very long time, as do some high quality aftermarket ones, like the pump included in the Gates or Continental service kits. That means some folks just inspect the pump for side and end float bearing wear (Or coolant weeps), rather than change it every cam belt and tensioner interval.
If you do that, make sure the previous pump was a real OEM standard one (OEM Volvo, Gates or Conti) and NOT SOME FAR EAST JOB, cos their bearings are carp and tend to seize when old (Wiping out the cam belt) AND always change the coolant for genuine Volvo 50/50 mix green stuff, not some tap water mix from Fleabay or your local Iffy parts shop.
In reality the coolant should be changed every 2 years according to the Volvo bible AND not topped up with anything but the real McCoy Volvo green mix. The V40 cooling system is well sealed so I only use about half a tea cup for an annual (20K km) top up. If you need to top up more often, check for leaks or even a dodgy HG.
OFF TOPIC:
Just read an interesting post about a Renault diesel that lasted 600K km before the car around it fell apart. OEM head gasket, injectors and turbo still fitted. All the owner did was exactly what Renault list for a severe service routine as regards fluids. Castrol Edge 0w30 in winter and Shell Helix Ultra 5w40 in summer, changed every 10K km (Renault severe service OCI). So there is hope for us long term V40 compression ignition types staying out of the, new turbo, mayo in the oil or sludged out threads after all!