In tank fuel pump for L reg Torslanda.
 

I never know how much fuel is in my car, it's driving me crazy!
Has anyone got a spare one of these?
Cheers, Neil

A polite request............
 

Hi Lampkin, er before you get excited, no I have'nt got one. Sorry.

Reason for replying it to ask, that if you do replace yours would you put a few piccies up, like a 'how-to'?

My main pump 'sings' once fuel is low say, below 1/4 tank. Telling me that the in-tank pump is either 'dead' or one of the pipes have 'blown off' allowing it to just uselessly pump the fuel straight back to where it came from.

Being novicey' it'll help loads if I could have a preview of what to expect:thumbs_up:

Good Luck, oh & BTW I THINK the pumps are still available at Mainstealers for less than £40

The pumps are available but the bit Neil needs in order to get a fuel gauge working is the is the rest of the assembly, which most definitely does not come with the pump. They are hard to find and usually expensive as well. They all rust at the top and either fracture the pipes when trying to disconnect the hoses or else lose the ground connection.

Neil, have you checked the wiring from the sender to the gauge? A good test is to disconnect the sender and check the gauge and then ground the wire and see if the gauge reading changes.

Hello Andrew.

The actuall wire connector is totally snapped at the round white plastic cap thing so I think thats definitely the problem.
I was wondering if it can be re connected somehow?
By the way, what is the actuall part called that I need?
Cheers Neil

I doubt that any reconnection would last very long but if you're creative then you may be able to do something.
I think they're just called a 'fuel gauge sender' or possibly 'sensor'. You do need to specify the year and engine as there are a number of variations.

You could look at

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fuel-...mZ140265416416

eBay item #140265416416 but I don't know if it will fit your car. Search for 'volvo fuel gauge' without the quotes.

Blo*d* hell!
They are quite pricey arent they?
I think I will have a go at spot soldering first.
Or perhaps, I thought I could get a very small self tapper, wind the wire around it and then screw it into the stumpy bit of wire in the plastic cap?

Do let us know how you get on. The small self tapper seems like it could work. Possibly cover it in epoxy once you have tested it?

Having spent £170 on one I examined the broken one (yes, it was the electrical connection in the little black block) and decided I could have fixed it. New wires would have had to be joined below the flange (i.e. inside the tank) then threaded out through the hole where the block would have been then the hole sealed. However, the chances are you will damage the pipes when removing unless you are very careful and fashion some sort of tool to engage with the lugs from a vertical direction. Removing the rubber pipes from the metal ones is fraught too because where the metal pipes go into the flange is sure to be at least partially corroded, cutting off is safer even if it means routing in new pipes.

I am working with this now....

argh!


are there any diagrams of the fuel system.....?


I am pulling the sending unit, the cover has rusted thru where the fuel pump wires and the sending unit (for the fuel guage) wires enter the sending unit cover


so, when I fill the car with petrol, it spills out the little wire holes onto the ground....



qhile I am in the tank, I want to replace the filters and all user replacable stuff


I hear there is a pump
a filter sock

a prepump

a post pump


and a fuel filter near the motor

then I am lost


and, when I turn the key in the run rposition, nto crank or started, but just to run-ignition-power postion....

the wheel vibrates


it is like there is another fuel ump, and there are no rubber bushings on where it mounts


anything like that?

thanks

al
al

This is from my 88 240GLT with K-jet, I think the fuel delivery on the LH-jet is similar so...

Filter sock in tank over intake.
Pre-pump in tank.
Main pump under car, near side, just in front of rear axle. Output of main pump contains a non-return valve that is supposed to maintain system pressure when off for quicker starts. Has rubber isolating mounts.
Accumulator on same mounting as main pump.
Filter in engine bay.
Fuel injection gubbins in engine bay.
Return pipe from engine bay to tank.

Both pumps should run for a short period when key turned to position 2, but should stop soon as they are not supposed to run with engine stopped. If they continue to run then someone has bypassed the fuel pump relay, this should be fixed ASAP.

HTH,
Andrew