A sticky? What are the common rust-traps on a P80
 

In another thread sdg1970 of this forum made the very valid point - these cars are getting to a stage where rust is getting to some. I confess five years back, I'd be the first to brag, these things don't rust, and they don't.... but mine's at the entry point of proving me wrong. I've seen a few kept in and around the South coast 'darn sarf' and 'Oop narth' , Hull etc that are nothing but scrap. The salt air finishes 'em.

It'd be good if this thread could become a quick sign-post thread that becomes a sticky, wihich in turn feeds-off the killers and common-faults thread here:

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=263883

Keep 'em short and sweet, best with pix if you've got them, and your favourite product/ cure if you've got one:

I'll kick-off:

1) The area in and around the rear exhaust hanger bracket.
I caught mine in time.

2) Door stays
Usually driver's door goes first. Don't let it 'ping' becuase it'll stress the pillar and welding comes next. Which ruins the galv, and down we go.

So come on boys, I live inland... a good many of you know a lot more about this than me...

Plenty have had problems under the plastic arch liners and sill covers. I'm at the stage where, I spray WD40 in between the liners once a month (you can just squeeze the little red plastic straw thingy WD40 cans have in there) and more frequently in salty, wintry conditions.

I also caught my rear exhaust hanger area in time, but imo it needs regular attention. The fuel tank filler pipe bracket where it joins the tank is another piece that by now is likely to be rancid. I've coated mine in Jenolite and Waxoyl and didn't meddle with it. This Winter am Waxoyling the rear end on mine again and will likely do so at the end of each Summer going forward.

The importance of regular pressure washing under arches, around sills and back end cannot be over-stressed. Even if it means blowing off any loose Waxoyl - that was likely hiding something nasty anyway. Just my sixpence...

Sill Cover Underside Check:~
 

Sill Covers:~ https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=302938
Bob.

2) Door stays
Reading it back, perhaps I failed to make myself clear. I wrote about htsi before, again...

The door stays don't corrode, they wear and make the doors 'pop' under the strain. This eventually cracks the 'A' pillar, which can't be sorted without welding. This wrecks the ductility of the sheet steel and the galv. It starts to rot. The weld cracks again, which has to be welded a second time. The end result is a pig's ear.

Catch it early and the fix is eBay's finest door-stay for £12 - five minutes with two nuts and a 10mm spanner.

Credit to Amazondean for this one:

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...t%2C+corrosion

Sorry can't credit these pix, can't remember where they came from, you know who you are.

HIDDEN DANGER: Rear Bumper brackets 6816114
 

HIDDEN DANGER: DO THIS CHECK NOW! Rear Bumper brackets 6816114

I could swear I've posted this before... rear bumper brackets. At the age these cars are at, I've not seen a car without these at dangerous levels of corrosion. I will almost guarantee your rear bumper is set to fall off.

Part 6816114 is a thin bracket exposed to rot. A swift kick and my bumper fell away. Mine should not have passed its MOT. It did because the problem hides well.

Second post down, here's an example of what you'll find...

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=318127

The genuine Volvo parts are cheap. On the bay of E, under £40 for two. get 'em whilst they're hot.

Kick your bumper, and watch as most are reduced to dust on your drive...

[not mine, I credit tactcom7's and others for these pix]

More pix...

Corrosion: Which towns not to buy a car from?
 

Where not to buy a car?

Different parts of hte country have very different corrosion rates. This is why some of you have mint rot-free cars, whereas others with cars of the same age are near finished.

UK Corrosion map:

https://www.galvanizing.org.uk/corrosion-map/