Heater control valve.
 

Hi All, I'm trying without success to locate a heater control valve for my non air con 1997 940. Ive got a very wet drivers floor and they dont seem to be available. Can anyone help with where I may find one please ? Brookhouse Volvo site says no longer available also.

Nowhere sells them, you have to modify a mk1 golf valve, a quick Google should show you what to do.

See latest thread on the subject at:

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=321196

Bob :)

I did mine earlier in the year. the MK1 Golf valve does fit, but you need to trim some of the valve to make it fit as space is tight.

I used some standard flexible heating hose, and bought some jubilee clips. Cut the pipe to size and re-fitted. It took a little time just because access it limited and you need to contort yourself into strange angles to see properly.

I used the steps outlined by Bob and mine its working perfectly.

I've been searching for one for 18 months via eBay etc and only one has come up, which went for £85. Retrofitting a different valve like the MK1 Golf valve is your only option if you want controllable heat, which you probably do, even if we're now in winter. You could just plumb in a manual tap but that's probably not ideal. And a scrap valve is likely to suffer the same issues as the original - the inlet and outlet pipe are plastic and easily deformed and prone to cracking

This is the vital post - it's just plumbing so not particularly hard.

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showp...5&postcount=16

You might find access easier if you remove the driver's seat, alternatively open the driver's door fully and stick a couple of scaffolding boards or a pallete at sill height so you can work flat on your back. Alternatively, find a small, young, flexible person!

MK1 Golf nonAC Heater Valve Mod
 

I recently did this conversion! Took me a whole day as I had to modify the valve, but it's been fine for the last 3 months or so.

Not only did I have to modify the valve by shortening the ends, I also had to reverse the arm on the valve too as my 940 has 2 cables to the valve, rather than one, and operates in the opposite way.

This wasn't mentioned in the link that Bob sent as I think the early cars only had one cable. (Although it's a great write up might I add!)

I didn't add the alloy inner strengthening tubes however as I didn't think it'd be necessary, as the plastic is very similar in thickness to original valve. Although if I had the time, I would consider it!

The difficult part is attaching the 2 cables if your car has two, rather than one. To attach the second upper cable, I first put the lower cable (Heater control) through the circular end of the upper cable, to which I then fastened the lower cable to the heater valve arm. Then I put a small zip tie through the circular end of the upper cable, and tied it around the heater valve arm towards the inside so it can't slide off - The lower cable prevents this.

In hindsight it would probably be best to drill an additional hole on the arm, to which it could attach to.

To attach the lower cable (Heater control) to the heater valve body itself, I used the original metal tang. I did have to bend this slightly to make it fit better with some pliers though. I then put a beefy zip tie around this to make sure it stays on!

I've attached this link so you can see how it operates/works. Hope you get the idea: https://youtu.be/B-yn1XUV-tw

Brilliant, thanks for this - we might be approaching a universal solution for this common fear/problem amongst us poverty-spec 940 owners!

Thank you! It's a horrible job to do as it's in such an awkward place - would budget a whole weekend ideally :wink_smile:

Also props to Bob with the original post, great find!

Think the idea of whipping out front seat is a good one. It's a simple job and would create space to lie down