Electric window not working driver's side
 

Hi All

Since the prolonged UK winter my car has got some electrical problems (240SE estate manual 200F RHD K '92).

The main problem is that the driver's power window has stopped working, though I can operate the passenger's window from the driver's armrest switch.

Before I start going on a wild goose chase pulling out trim and disturbing wiring, what would be a good place to start investigating this?

I have cleaned up the fuse connections, but it's not the fuse, assuming both power windows are on the same fuse.

Thanks

I can't promise that it's the same for your year, but my 1989 Owner's manual says that all electrically operated windows are on the same fuse - no. 10 from the top, 16A.

I reckon to always check simplest cheapest things first. Check connections and the switch. This does mean stripping out the door trim. That's a reasonably straightforward job on my J reg 200SE.

Whilst the door trim is off, has water got inside the door? That could cause an "after winter" electrical problem? There's a sheet of polythene that should be in strategic place behind the trim to deflect water from the window down out of harm's way.

Good luck.

I had the same problem with my 850r

I'm not saying this will fix yours as different cars but worth a try!!!

Someone told my to squirt some WD40 into the switch as they get clogged up with dirt etc, so I thought I'll give it a try and hey pesto !!! it worked and has done ever since which was over 3 years ago...

Hi Jungle Jim,
afraid I've no advice other than my 240 driver's window did the same today. When operating the switch with the engine off but ignition on, the dash lights dim, which suggests the switch has power, and the window motor can be heard to give a single click each time the switch is rocked, but nothing else. Never had a problem with the windows before, summer or winter. No help to you, I know, but hopefully someone has had these symptoms too and may have the solution.

A thought
 

What hapens if you swap the wiring plugs over for the front windows?

If you swap over the front units and the passenger window works from the drivers' window switch then the wiring or motor's at fault; if the passenger window doesn't operate then the switch is the problem. Confirm by pressing the passenger switch: if the driver's window operates then the driver's switch is the culprit, otherwise the wiring or motor is defective.

Switch cleaner, available from Maplins inter alia, might help. Otherwise the fix depends on the source of the problem but switch problems can often be resolved by swapping them over.

Hi, I had this problem on my 240 a couple of years back. It turned out to be a break in the wiring where it passes from inside the car through the little rubber gaiter and into the door. I`m assuming that over the years with all the opening and closing of the door the wire eventually breaks. If you pull back the rubber gaiter you should be able to see if there is any damage. I simply reconnected mine with a small block connector and its worked fine ever since.
Good luck, Dave

Hi all
With this problem, after doing some investigation I found that what George123 described is exactly what I've got...

The power window circuit has a 12v supply, the switch is ok, and when I press the switch either way, there is a small click coming from the motor.

So - is this jammed workings, or a failing motor? When I try to move the window mechanisms by hand, it won't budge - should it be possible to move any of this by hand?

Thanks
John (Jungle_Jim)

So you think its getting power which a good thing, as suggested have you tried swapping the switch yet to confirm yours isn't duff.

simple things are sometimes overlooked have you trie"helping" the window down with your hand while the other is on the switch? The glass may have just become stuck to the rubbers while the car has sat, mine had to be unstuck in a similar manner after 2months of sitting.

For the benefit of me and George123...
I have the door trim off, and none of the window mechanism will budge when you depress the switch and try to force the window down by hand at the same time.

Is it likely to be the motor? Because I find it hard to believe that the window mechanism would suddenly seize, and it all looks ok and still has some lubricant on it. As I said it's clearly getting 12v and the dash lights dim when you press the switch, as though there's a power drain when you press it.

I can see a couple of bolts to get the window mechanism out - when you replace this, does it need aligning? I am asking for any advice in an attempt to keep this to an hour or two of work, rather than interminable days of mucking around.

Thanks
John (Jungle_Jim)