Awaiting delivery of Volvo V50 2.4i (2009) J Import
 

Hi gents, new on here - crossed over from Skoda.

Always liked Volvo, but have previously sticked with Skoda for a while, mainly because they were great value. This is until used prices got so ridiculous and it made sense to go the import route for a V50.

Anyway, it lands in a couple of days. It's done just under 50k miles. Are there any recommendations for immediate prep/maintenance work I should do? I'm going to get a full engine service done, but the two main points of contention are the cam belt and gearbox oil. I guess if there's no evidence of the cam belt been changed, I'll get that done. But what about the transmission? Service it or not? Also, I mentioned the cam belt to my mechanic (BMW specialist) and he said it might have to be done by a specialist as he thinks it requires a specific Volvo tool. Is this correct?

As for the Japanese to UK related work. Haven't decided fully yet. Things to consider are miles to km (not sure I'm that bothered) language change and potentially swapping out the sat nav unit.

Only comment I have to make is regarding replacing the SatNav unit ... rather than using another Volvo C1-series unit, could you just replace the entire CD player / radio / etc with something that can interface with a 'phone & use the in-car screen, ie. Apple CarPlay & Android Auto. That way you can always switch between SatNav systems (some free ones are very good & in fact a lot better than what's in many cars), you can always get the latest maps, etc.

How long do you have to wait, and how long does it feel ... :)

Agreed, the Android Auto solution will be suitable. That's as long as it is readily feasible; I did see some information where it is said to be a bit tricky to swap out.

Have had to wait 12 weeks in total as there was a delay with shipping. Will be nice to get back on the road after not having full time use of a vehicle for nearly a full year. I thought used prices in the UK might come back to me, but that proved folly 😆

Welcome,

Nice choice of engine, the best sounding of the entire range due to no turbo. Noise it makes between around 4,000 to 6,000 rpm (right in the power band) is lovely.

- Cambelt on Volvo 5 cylinder engines is 108,000 miles or every 10 years.
It doesnt really need any special tools. There is a crank pulley holding tool that helped keep the crank still when tightening but there are numerous other methods to stop the crank from spinning that any half decent garage would be able to do.

- Spark plugs for this engine have 3 electrodes per spark plug. Not to be confused with the Turbo engines, which have only 1 electrode per plug.

- No harm in a gearbox oil flush.

Things to check:

- PCV diaphram - front of the engine, integrated into oil filter housing. If you hear a whistling noise from the engine at idle, and the noise disappears when you pull the dipstick, it means the rubber diaphram underneath the circular black plastic cover has torn. You can replace just the rubber diapham these days, but years ago you had to buy whole new oil fitler housing.

- Coolant loss - If you notice the coolant level is dropping over time, you may have a split coolant tank which is common. Easy to replace, just replace it, no need to drain system etc. Bear in mind there are TWO different types of coolant tank in this car:
Coolant tank for Ford / peugeot engines (all 3 outlets are on the same side, at the front)
Coolant tank for Volvo engines, 2 small outlets on front, 1 bigger outlet on rear).

Coolant loss may also be coming from the lower right "T-piece" coolant hose. The "T-piece" that joins the 3 hoses togehter is made of plastic and will crack over time, leading to coolant loss. Bit of a faff to replace as well because the airbox needs to be moved out of the way, which is a bit irritating to do.

Headlights - They might be rubbish due to silver reflective coating flaking away over time due to DayTime Running lights (the headlights) always being switched ON. Might not be so bad on yours due to lower mileage, but it's quite common.

Other than this nothing too major really, some people have had vibration issues from driveshafts, but thats mainly from the high torque T5 and D5 engines.

2.4i ,with the Geartronic box?
ATF fluid change NOT A FLUSH ,, not cheap as requires expensive ATF (compared to some) but 100% Worth getting done, do NOT "POWER FLUSH" and anywhere that advises that, RUN away

go find a Volvo specialist WITH vida+dice, it Will pay you in the wallet in the long run esp over a "specialist of other makes"

yes cam locking tools Are needed, go with Gen volvo belts + tensioners, Dont bother listening to the "do the water pump while your there" its fine,


PCV system/oil filter housing can leak/cause issues,, Volvo specialist to replace that, its a "SOD of A job" on the drive,,,,


forget you Can change the stero,, IF you totally rewire the car, remove the MOST security first, disable the can network to /from the stero, find a solution to the fiber optic cables,, etc etc etc, Forget it the cost is insane
Dont bother with the "bluepower" replacment its crap, no customer service , no customer support .

Cheers gents. What to do with the Transmission does seem to split camps. Some say leave alone, some flush and some change. Then there's a whole list of conditions and techniques within each strategy 😁

Just been talking to my mate who likes a Volvo and he said don't touch it unless it blows up 😆

gearbox 2k. fluid cheap you decide i would change it.

any saying "power flush" dont have clue #1
Change, various methods - Good idea
"do nothing - buy a new box before you needed to"

ALL the other manufs that use the same autoboxes have a schedule to replace the ATF,,

What do you recommend with regards to the transmission, Andy? Just a straight forward one and done fluid change or a series of changes one after the other, etc?

Will it be easy enough to wire in a front and rear dash cam on these V50s? Forgive my ignorance.

Just received the vehicle today. My mechanic seemed amazed how immaculate the undercarriage is.

On the engine cover or close by there's a Volvo sticker with a mileage and date on it; 17,000km, 2017. Anyone know what this is possibly referring to?

personal pref only, there Maybe a better solution

3 or more partial changes, with about a 100(ish) miles between them "should" replace about 85-95% of the ATF with fresh,

https://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showt...ally-effective

^^ worth a Read


Dash cam , not a clue :D





it May be relating to the Cam belt,,,
up to you If you choose to go with that OR for the £ get a new one/tensioner/aux belt/tensioner done so You know Exactly when on date/miles it Was done

Aisin Seiki wouldn't have gone to the effort and expense of fitting a drain plug if that were the case.

Going to pop into the local main stealer to check there are no outstanding recalls. Might just mention the transmission service to see what their response is out of interest. Better not mention the belt, they'll probably want a £1000 for it.

do let us know ,,
theres a "bit" of a history of "doesnt need anything/sealed for life" and people not being Offered an ATF change by main dealers,,,

you may as well Ask about the cam belt/aux belt + tensioners :D
there is Usually a comfortable seat + free coffee to get over the shock :D

Call this company, they’ve got a proven record on diagnostic and solving issues on Aisin gearboxes, they’ll be able to advise

https://hortoncars.co.uk/

TT

Not near me unfortunately. I guess for those seeking somebody out, these types of specialists are the way to go.

They do give advice too, it’s worth a call.

TT

Will the vehicle benefit from some sort of application of underseal?

I know this is a common procedure for J imports, although my mechanic said there is definitely some factory protection already on. I guess the question is whether if it is to European spec? If it is, there seems little point in applying anything further unless there's something out there that is really good stuff and will be of benefit. Apparently the best way to do it is a steam clean followed by application of whatever product.

Picked it up earlier, very comfortable and mostly okay. Couple of things I noticed were I wasn't sure if the gear shifter seemed slightly stiff. I'm used to driving a manual where a flick of the wrist can change up, but with this it seemed to take a bit more of a push or pull. It might be normal though. I'm also not sure if I could hear a slight humming. Will have to have another listen.

Going to get it serviced soon. From what I've read;

Oil & filter. Air filter. Cabin filter (tricky job)
Spark plugs
Brake fluid change

Timing belt kit & Auxiliary belts (specialist)

Transmission fluid strategy?

you Are using the "button" on the shifter to move it?
when stopped, foot on brake, pull "button/lever" on shifter - moves freely
ditto when going from R <>N <>D , tho you Can move it from D to N without needing the button

yes there Is a bit of resistance when in sequential mode, and you do (or at least on my 2) need to use the Full travel of the shifter to +/- (and it Will only do the shift when the rev's are close to correct)

cabin filter ,, follow the LONG thread on here, its DIY'able,, DO get a magnetic pick up tool for the bolts holding the CEM bracket ,,,,you will find out why if you dont :D

belts + Atf,, Worth considering using Horton's for both @ the same time (and plugs) wallet depending, yes its a drive,,yes its a wait but there rep ,,its worth it,, esp when you look at the £ of a replacment geatronic box.

oh and factor in spending £ on the insides to get it Clean,, all DIY jobs,
leather steering wheel?
pop to halfrauds :P Autoglym leather Cleaner and a clean microfiber cloth,, work the cleaner into the wheel,, ditto the shifter,,

you Will be looking at the cloth after and thinking "uck"

Had a sit in the car earlier and the lever still feels a bit stiff. However my mechanic didn't mention it when he drove to the MOT, simply said it was a lovely drive and in nice condition.

Horton's is probably going to be too far in reality, it's a 4 hour drive. I'm looking at a place called Austrin Gearbox Specialist to service the transmission.

Received a quote from The Main Stealer, £1100 for the belts and change to UK language 😆🤣

Hi Nick - I've just taken the plunge and won an auction in Japan so now own a 2015 V70 T6. Can you share the details of any companies you came across that transported the car from the docks to your home please

TIA, Phil

Very nice. Which docks is it from?

I've not made that call yet - I won the auction yesterday morning UK time and sent the money over in the afternoon. My options are Grimsby or Bristol - the choice will be influenced by time. I did a cursory look yesterday and to transport from Bristol to Macclesfield is approx £270, which seems reasonable, it's really a case of who you might/might not recommend service wise?

I read your post on your experience - I looked through GooNet myself, but ended up going straight to the Auction houses via a company called Japan Car Direct. I'm glad your experience was good - fingers crossed mine will be too.

I did speak with Volvo yesterday and gave them the VIN - they were able to tell me what options the car has. I've also asked them to dig around to see if there is any service history on their records - not holding out for that though!

I used a local courier to me that was recommended by my mechanic. They primarily run a breakdown service but also deliver vehicles as well. I think the ports you mention are going to be too far off their radar, especially Bristol.

It might be worth contacting the relevant port when you know, to see if they have a company in place to arrange delivery. I've heard this mentioned before. You could also get some quotes on Shiply, just don't necessarily opt for the cheapest one and make sure they are fully insured and look reputable, etc.

With regards to service history, depending on how you're recieving your documentation - you may find some bundled in. My vehicle was advertised without maintenance history but it came with a good chunk of recorded services and checks when I received the car documents. The last recorded maintenance was done in 2020. The list of checks was huge compared to what you'd expect in UK and everything had a tick next to its box. But unfortunately there's no evidence of the cam belt having been done 😆

That's a good idea re: contacting the port.
I did do a request via Shipley - so will use as backup
I received some photos today of the car - it's in some compound, first impressions are better than expected - so from a cosmetic perspective I'm happy from what I can see - of course - it's the engine that matters, I did get a vehicle check done pre-bidding and they said the engine ran smoothly with no smoke, no leaks etc - fingers crossed eh

With regards your cam belt - I'd get it done anyway just for peace of mind. I think my engine is a chain, but I'll be getting all fluids changed and full service when I get it - reset the service history - at least I'll know where I'm up to.

in bold,
a Sensible thing to do with Any 2nd hand car, never mind one from "a n Other country",
yes it gets expensive, but nowhere Near the cost of a replacement engine/gearbox or car due to not