no dipstick, broken other one
 

hey all,

I wanted to do the sevrice on my car myself insted of going to the garage. I got hold of a pump to suck out the oil, but of course like so many I dont have an actual dipstick, and when I look for the place where the small dipstick I have heard others talk about , I can see there was something there but whatever it was its bust, there is a little bit of yellow plastic, but nothing to actually get hold of. And the metal plate over what I assume is the dipstick hole looks like its been tacked on.

Any other way to suck out the oil at all or am I biggered and have to do it from underneath.

Assuming I do have to do it from underneath, I cant put the cr up level on a ramp, I have a trolly jack and 2 axle stands, what would you suggest in regards lifting the car for the oil drain.

I'm new to Volvo but have a D5 XC70 and will be doing an oil change soon. I plan to use my ramps and drain from below, which should be an easy job. I don't know what car you have but the drain plug on mine is to the rear of the sump and so lends itself to a nose-up attitude. Maybe it'd be worthwhile getting ramps which would pay for themselves in time and would be far safer in my view than a jack.
I've ordered a police dipstick assy to instal at the same time, I can't be doing with an electronic gauge although I believe it's relatively accurate on these cars.
Maybe you could somehow prise the old plastic service stick out from its seat and replace with a proper one like I'm doing, it'll make the job of oil changes much easier in future.
Let's know how you get on.

Peter

Thanks Peter, mine is a 2013 S80 D5, so I recon its probably not that dissimilar to yours. I could get a set of ramps, or I guess I could just jack up the front.

Presumably its as simple as , oil tray under nut, loosen and then remove nut, drain oil into tray, (remove top oil thing to speed it up) put nut and new washer back in (Do I need a torque wrench).
Replace oil filter, then re-top up with new oil. done?

Yes, basically you're there, a torque wrench is always useful but not essential.
This video is useful:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6n0p66YDz6g

so, can anyone tell me if I missed anything, here is what I have ordered.
Car is 2013 S80 D5 (215Hp model).

7L Mobil Super 3000 Formula 0W-30
Bosch Oil Filter
Air Filter
Fuel Filter (may not change this)
Oil Drain Plug with Seal Ring
Torque Wrench
Socket set for removal of oil filter housing
10L oil waste container

This I think is all I need.
Warm up the engine for 10 mins.
Jack up front of car, put on low axle stands.
place oil tray in right place, loosen and remove nut
Speed up oil drain with removal of oil cap on top
When done, change oil filter
Air filter
put nut and new ring back and tighten to correct torque settings
Clean up a but
Lower car back down again
Put new oil in (5.9l I think, but I read to aim for 5.6 or close to it)
Put everything back together, and job done?

Question. How does one reset the computer so it knows the service has been done?

cool. I have done oil and fuel filters on a 3L A6 Diesel some time ago, but never the actual oil change.

last question, Jack up the front and put it on Axle stands, its not too high an angle is it? I guess it will be around 10" off the ground?

Did mine last week - the first time I've changed the oil on my "new" V70.

It was surprisingly easy. Although I've done dozens and dozens of oil changes on all sorts of cars over the years, this was the first on the current V70.

Unless the car is high enough off he ground to get at the sump plug without taking off the engine under tray, you will need to remove the under tray.

I jacked the car up on the front nearside, and removed the wheel. Popped a jackstand underneath a suitably chunky bit of the subframe and lowered the jack until the car rested on the jack stand. I left the jack in place too, and slid the removed wheel under the sill as a "just in case".

(Last year as I jacked up our old S70 the sill collapsed in a cloud of brown dust, so I'm a bit nervous!)

The under tray came off easily, and the sump plug is very accessible at the back of the sump pan. I fitted a new sump plug washer.

The oil filter is a doddle - a big 36mm socket is needed - I bought a special Laser one for £7.35. I did cover the alternator with some rags, as the filter sits right above the alternator on my car, but there was zero spillage.

The paper filter popped out, and I replaced the rubber seal with the new one that came with the new filter. (Bosch - £8 from the local motor factors).

I very carefully measured the oil that had drained out, and topped up with 5.7 litres.

My car has the electronic dipstick, so over the next couple of days I kept a careful eye on that at each start-up. At first it registered at the max mark, then it settled to level 3.

I'd never changed the oil in a Diesel engine before, and the only word of warning I'd have is that used Diesel engine oil is filthy stuff!

After that, engine started up and allowed to idle, a check for leaks (there were none), under tray back on, road wheel back on, jackstand out, jack down, wheel bolts torqued, job done in comfortably under an hour, and for a good deal less than a garage would charge.

The canister filter is so much easier than anything I'd seen before. I did carefully torque to the recommended 25Nm, and although I think you could get away with using a big spanner, having the proper socket does make sense, especially as it costs just £7!

This time the car was only due an oil change - the aux and cambelts, air filter, fuel filter and cabin filter were all done within the last year, and the brakes and tyres are all new, so needed no attention.

Jack

PS: I shopped around for oil, and was surprised that Halfords came out cheapest, with a choice of a variety of brands.

I personally tend to feel somewhat safer if working under the car when using a pair of car ramps. Probably around £50.00 to buy new ?

Also it seems easier than faffing with jacks and stands. When oil changing I just drive the front of the car up and onto the ramps and remove the undertray and sump plug.

Each to their own:regular_smile:.

Ta. I do indeed own a pair of ramps - had them for over 40 years. Big, heavy duty welded steel frames that would support rather more than even a V70!

However, there's not enough clearance under the nose of the V70 to get the ramps in. It probably would be ok driving up the ramps as the nose would probably lift just enough to give clearance. However, I can easily foresee that reversing back down off the ramps and the front valance / bumper would definitely foul on the ramps .

I guess I need some lower profile ramps, but for the odd time I'd expect to use them it doesn't seem worth it.

Jack