PV headlamps
 

Hi. In my pv headlamps is a large deflector. The H4 bulbs also have their business ends blanked. So, are the deflectors in the lamps redundant, can I remove them, get better light? On main beam there is definite dark spot, beam penetration is cut off.

I have a '57 PV444. It has a six volt battery. The headlamps are integrated - all one piece - no separate reflector or deflector. They may or may not be halogens, but they are very weak by today's standards.

Well, yes, my 6 volt M21’s light is fairly feeble, too! Have you also the 1400 engine?
I guess my lamps are 544, as car is. H4 bulbs. Someone else has told me the deflectors make beam better. . . . !

I'm still not sure what you mean by "deflectors". I've seen pictures of those "eyebrows" that sit above the headlight, but I'm not sure they will make the headlights brighter.

I would see if you can improve your situation by trying to re-aim the headlights. When I first drove my car at night - fortunately a short drive of about 500 meters - I could see absolutely nothing! I parked the car about 20 feet in front of a wall where I could see the location of the beams and re-aimed the lights. Still not great, but not suicide to drive at night!

I also found that I had a voltage drop of about .5 volts across the light switch. You might try to clean your connections at both the switch and at the fuse box. At some point, I plan to replace the switch, but I lost the hardware for the replacement switch and need to fabricate a new nut assembly to hold the switch to the firewall.

This type of H4 headlamp isn't unusual. Do they have flat front lenses? If so I had a pair in my MKI Golf. They worked fine. The "blanked off" end on the bulbs is normal for H4's. I've not looked in the back of one of this type of headlight but I might expect to see that the back of the deflector is also a reflector. I think it it is to give a sharp cut off for the dip beam. Plenty of dome front H4 lamps are available. Volvo do their own with Volvo logo in the glass but these are expensive. Plenty of cheaper ones, from MGB parts suppliers for example. Some also have a pilot light in and this is a very useful thing to have. With a bit of wiring you can piggy back them into the normal feeble sidelight wiring.
6v Halogens bulbs are available to fit standard lamp units that take H4 bulbs. Worth a try as long as your battery is in good health. Halogens need as close the their voltage rating as possible. Voltage drop isn't good for their efficiency. Use a relay if you want the best results. For the adventurous 8V tractor batteries have been used by some. Certainly gives the starter a boost but I don't know the survival rate of bulbs!

I mean, inside the lamp, dead ahead of the bulb, is a circle of metal on a strut. I have replaced my light switch with new modern, as mine died. The beam aim is fine. Have ordered pair of Phillips 145/100 watt bulbs, c what that does.

Derek. Yes, flat front glass, no sidelights.

Yes you describe the inside of the lamp as I remember it. In fact I think I have one of them somewhere. I wish you luck with those bulbs, especially if you still use a dynamo. Even 100/60 is pushing your luck.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154581008...EaAtEsEALw_wcB

Mmm, did wonder about that. Anyone know dynamo output? Am thinking of fitting an alternator, anyway. Dynamo been good so far.

I cant help you with the 6V dynamo output. Consider on a 6v supply a 60w lamp is 10 Ampere per lamp. Ammeters fitted to 50s and 60s cars with dynamos had a maximum charge and discharge reading of +30 to -30 Amperes. 2 x head lights consuming 20A does not leave much if any for replenishing the battery. Treat it to an alternator if possible is the best route.

Nor;

Dynamo output will be specified in Service Manuals, and likely also Owners Manual. I understand 45/40W elements in Halogen are available for 6V. These would draw an equal amount of current, but give better lighting, and are what I would recommend you locate and install.

I doubt 145/100W headlight elements are even available in 6V...but they would not be road legal in the US, and highly doubtfully in the EU, not to mention the higher power consumption, which would mean that, without increasing the output of Charging Sys, while they are ON, the Batt will need to make up what the Dyn can't supply, and be discharging...my advice: Do not make changes without proper technical consideration!

Cheers