V70 Rear Springs Change
 

Hi there, new user here!

Trying to replace a broken rear siding on my p2 FWD D5 V70.

Not going so well currently, I’ve dropped the shock and removed the old spring, by dropping the control arm.

Trying to reseat the new standard spring is a nightmare, I can’t get it aligned properly at all. The bottom tip just pops out from the notch in the seat when I start to jack up the control arm.

Any help or advice is appreciated!
Thanks!

they are total b£$trds to get in and out I know.. I think Volvo uses an internal spring compressor when they do it

have you tried something like a cable tie or twist of gardening wire just to keep it aligned while you jack.

I've read of people using a bit of washing up liquid to help get it in there to start with but it sounds like you're already past that point

The cable tie idea isn’t a bad one, I’ve actually picked up an internal spring compressor today (Sealey) so might have to give that a whizz.

I wonder how much easier lowering springs aren’t to get in?

let us know how you get on with that and add a link to the compressor you use if it works, people will definitely be interested in that :)

lowered springs probably a bit easier but i wouldnt do it myself, the car is heavy and crashy enough through potholes as it is (admittedly that's with polybushed wishbones, subframe bush inserts that I'm thinking of removing, and tyres to 36)

The compressor can be found on a few websites, but it’s also on Amazon!
Sealey AK3842 Coil Spring Compressor, 350mm

Think there was a guy on here had done a few of his T5’s with it, but can’t recall or find his username. Interested to know from him if he did it without dropping any arms, but just compressing the spring and putting it in

Double post sorry!

When I changed the rears on my C70, which are almost the same PITA I used external Hilka 12700055 Coil Spring Compressors; they are a very similar pattern to the Sealey's, but bolts used are just slightly different (but probably made in the same factory) by almost fully compressing the springs with the "hooks located on the second and second to last coil, and rotating the compressed spring at a slight angle they just cleared the lower cup.

Once seated in the lower arm they are much easier to locate in the upper cup - I used tight cable ties either side of each hook to prevent the hooks slipping along the coil. I used a further pair of ties at the mid-point of each coil between the hooks to reduce the risk of the compressors letting go should the hooks have slipped at all. Once you have located them correctly remove the third pair of cable ties then slowly release each compressor no more than half a turn on alternate sides; only remove the "anti-slip" hold ties when the spring is fully released.


However, using internal compressors does make it easier....apparently!

Thanks for all the suggestions men. I’ve done plenty of rear springs before but this really is a challenge.

Ah the fella on here was B1MCP, I can’t tag him as I’ve only brand new.

Keen to know if he did it using compressors alone, and not unbolting any control arms?

Yes, internal spring compressor is the only thing needed.

When I first did this job I tried the control arm thing. It was a nightmare and I ended up using ratchet straps to get things held in place and aligned to get the job done. It can be done but it's just a hack and really not worth the cost of a spring compressor.

Internal Spring compressor is the right way to do it and I've done it several times with the tool without issue . See my post about using a spacer with the Sealey tool.

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...ghlight=sealey


Good Luck.

Thanks for the info. I’ve only the one side jacked up right now but can’t see why that would make a difference as everything if independent apart from the arb which is detached.

The problem I’m having is getting the lower portion of the spring to sit where it needs too, even if the top is mounted properly in the aluminium cup.

It just springs back outwards, and doesn’t want to sit where it should