Rust advice needed
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Hi!
Yesterday I became an owner of a nice '97 940 estate. I wanted one for a while, and one became available locally. 200k miles on the clock, 2 previous owners. FSH. But, obviously, a car this age comes with some issues. Most are minor things I'll fix. One thing that I need to act on and help the car fight with is rust. The MOT has advisory `Vehicle structure is corroded but structural rigidity is not significantly reduced (6.1.1 (c) (i))`. I've attached a few pictures I manage to take. What are the typical measures I'd need to take and how urgent you reckon this is? |
Great to see another 940! I have a 96 940, with 208,000 miles. Runs great.
I would use a wire wheel on a drill or grinder and grind all the rust back to as bare metal as possible. Now in warm, dry weather is ideal. Treat the metal with a rust converter product then re paint with a rust converted primer then underseal of your product choice. Check the battery tray/ wheel arch area. Mine is going, known rust trap James.:thumbs_up: |
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I'll start working on it asap, hopefully the rust isn't going in too deep. I'm keen to keep the car going for years to come! Thanks for the advice :teeth_smile: |
A car you'll be driving for years to come. Mine was an unloved, cosmetically challenged 940 6 years ago, that was going to be broken for parts.
Tidied it up over the years but certain body panels need painting, if money was no object. Cost me £250 to buy and used as my work vehicle. The mechanicals are very reliable and easy for DIY maintenance. The body, rust wise is better than most cars of the age they are. Every 2 years, I re underseal mine with a few cans of waxoil. Built Humber, Dinitrol, lanoguard are probably better products out there, but it keeps it at bay. Will need to get battery tray area welded at some point. Enjoy your 940! James:thumbs_up: |
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One of the reasons I got one is because of the ease of working on them. I like to dabble in DIY and an old Volvo that is easy to work on is a perfect choice for me. Paid a few times more what you paid, but it was still one the cheapest around, and other than brake disc worn (fluctuating on braking), "slight seepage from a component steering rack", and, one heated seat not working, everything is in check. The suspension and engine are spot on, like a sewing machine, no knocks and bangs. Oh, and the oil temperature gauge is going up then down, never settling. And a small dent in the rear quarter. Other than those few small issues, the car is spot on! Re the rust routine, preventative maintenance sounds like the only way to go, just hope that I'll be able to keep at bay and MOT testers happy :) |
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Or oil pressure?
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That is probably as cancerous on the inside as out. Cut it out, weld in new metal, treat the cavity and paint the outside, and do it before they start salting the roads again.
The other parts I'd clean up and spray with Lanoguard, the most effective rust inhibitor and the easiest to apply. |
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