Crankshaft spigot bearing
 

I am (still) converting my 1800ES from auto to manual. I have a new spigot bearing to install in the rear of the crankshaft (B20). Anybody got any tips on how I remove the socket that's currently in there (and into which a peg on the front of the torque convertor fits)? Is it in there just as a push fit, or is there a fixing that I am not seeing? The new bearing comes with a sprung washer and a circlip but I cannot see any equivalent for the existing socket.

Thanks in anticipation!

I am unfamiliar with the term spigot bearing; but, I will speculate that you are referring to what is called a pilot bearing on the west side of the Atlantic.

I am working from a 1971 140 parts manual; but, I speculate that the BW35 set up is the same as exists on the 1800ES. For the BW35 version, the parts manual just refers to a guide bushing (part 28 a) which I am going to guess is pressed into part #28. You could remove part #28 (including 28a) which is thru bolted to the carrier plate (part #26); but, since the whole carrier plate assembly is being replaced by the M40/M41 flywheel that seems unnecessary.

I have no knowledge about the Volvo. The MG of the same era used a spigot bushing that was simply a press fit. I've been able to pull them with rented bearing puller and with a slide hammer. Both had little teeth that slid in and hooked to the back. I've also threaded a bolt into the bearing and used a puller. Here are some alternatives. http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/cs105.htm

If there's no circlip holding it in you can fill the centre hole with grease, and if you the hammer a suitably sized rod, or bolt, into the hole, the pressure should hydraulic it out.

Agree the easiest way to remove the pilot bearing is as described by old fart. Believe it or not, wet toilet paper works as well as grease and is a little less messy.
dean

Forum;

I've heard of the grease and toilet paper methods, but I've never found to need them...besides, if it is not a sealed bearing, and the spaces between balls are open, I can just imagine the mess...

I just use a sliding hammer with a bolt installed, whose head fits through the inner race hole, then is held to the side with a screwdriver, in order to catch the inner race...a couple of impact pulls from the slide later, and the bearing is easily persuaded out...without any kind of mess!

Cheers

Thanks everybody. I am only just seeing these replies as I have been sidetracked by a non Volvo issue ;)

It is the part you identified 142, and the replacement bearing, washer and circlip are items 30, 31 and 32 on your diagram. I think that 29 must just be (one of six) flywheel bolts rather than a centrally located bolt as indicated.

And Blue, there is indeed space to get a small puller leg in behind, but only one and I don't (currently!) have a slide hammer.

So Fart's hydraulic method is what I will be trying as soon as I can get back under the car. And I will keep the toilet paper handy, Austin.

And no worry about blow-through Ron. The bit I am trying to remove is just a solid spacer, not a bearing, but I do see your concern.

Thanks again everyone!

It's out! The power of hydraulics (and a big hammer).

I believe that replacements are fully sealed bearing so the washer and clip are essentially redundant. Don't quote me on that! Inexpensive from Brookhouse;

The bearings have always been sealed. The clip is to hold the bearing in place