Propshaft Bearing and Mount 164
 

Hi and thank you for allowing me into the forum.
I have recently acquired a 1969 3.0 litre non fuel injected 164.
I have already replaced both rear callipers, hoses, clutch slave cylinder and hose and exhaust brackets.
The rear brake on one side was binding and it ended up being a collapsed flex brake pipe. The clutch pedal was really stiff and only returned slowly and again this was down to a collapsed flexi hose.

I have a knocking when accelerating sometimes and it is coming from under the floor around the middle of the car.
From looking at the Propshaft rubber mount there is a lot of play and I can push and pull the propshaft easily about inside the rubber.

I suspect the mount needs replacing so will be doing that and the bearing whilst I am at it.
Can anyone shed some light as to how easy it is to separate the two shafts so I can get the old mount and bearing off please ?

It should be relatively easy. The back part of the shaft is splined into the front shaft. With enough clearance under the vehicle, it might be possible to just remove the center mount and allow the shaft to drop and separate at the splines. I have never tied that because I did a complete removal for replacement of all the U joints and the center carrier. If that trick doesn't work because you lack the vertical clearance (or the center U joint does not articulate sufficiently) you will have to separate the front U joint flange from the back of the transmission and drop the front end of the complete shaft. That will be the hardest part because the bolts have likely seized up tight. The front shaft should just pull off the splined stub attached to the center u joint. Removal of the center bearing from the front shaft is relatively straightforward, only complicated by the fact that the retaining nut may also be seized to the drive shaft.

I have included photos from the parts manual for the 140. I expect the 164 will be similar if not identical to the 140. The photos should the process clear.

Don't drop the drive shaft on your head while you are under the car and remember to phase the U joints correctly when re assembling. If the U joints are original, you might want to consider replacing them while things are apart.

If the retaining nut is seized to the drive shaft I use my vice on the workbench: fit the nut in the vice (drive shaft then standing on top of it) and stick a bar through the joint at the (then upper) end and turn the whole drive shaft. Working in this way you don't need a tool fitting the nut and the fairly flat nut will not be damaged by sliding off the tool while forcing it to turn.